Thickener Aristoflex AVC 30 g

Aristoflex AVC is an ideal polymer thickener in cosmetics

Aristoflex AVC is used as a thickener for oil-in-water emulsions (milk, cream, cream-gel) and as a gelling agent for aqueous systems (hair gel). Aristoflex AVC is designed for formulations with a melting texture for a fresh effect. It leaves no stickiness on the skin, dissolves quickly and without lumps in water and allows you to get a ready-to-use product in minutes.

What is a thickener and what types there are, we have discussed in the BLOG BEURRE article "Thickeners and gel formers in cosmetics". In the article you will find their classification and a summary table.

Characteristics of the component and features of use

INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Appearance: white fine powder

Origin: non-animal pH (1% solution): 4.0 - 6.0

Viscosity (1% solution): 48000 - 80000 mPa-s

Dosage (percentage of introduction into cosmetics): 0.5 - 2%

Solubility: in water or oil

Usage: there are 3 uses in recipes, you can read the detailed process below in the description.

Application details: Aristoflex AVC is sensitive to electrolytes. Consequently, the thickener cannot be used in the production of shampoos, shower gels and other systems containing a lot of salt. Aristoflex AVC can be used in a wide pH range (4.0 - 9.0). Lower pH values (below 4.0) may lead to polymer breakdown with acid release during prolonged storage, and consequently loss of viscosity.

Storage: long-term storage is recommended in a dark place at temperatures up to +25 °C, protected from direct sunlight and moisture.

Characteristics and features

Aristoflex AVC is a neutralised cross-linked copolymer of acrylamidopropylpropane sulphonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone. Emulsions with Aristoflex AVC have good rheological and sensory properties, can be produced at low pH values (from 4.0) and remain stable even without additional introduction of emulsifiers.

With this polymer it is possible to prepare a soft day cream cold process without adding other emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers or gelling agents to the formulation. Aristoflex can be used as a sole structuriser, for example for the preparation of complex after-sun creams with the introduction of a large number of UV filters. Such creams will have a refreshing effect and will be easy to apply. Creams with Aristoflex are perfectly distributed on the skin, quickly absorbed, and the lack of a feeling of "stickiness" gives an additional aesthetic touch. Aristoflex also gives creams an additional softness and tenderness to the cream textures.

One possible use of Aristoflex AVC is to stabilise water-soluble liquids (oils) without including an additional emulsifier in the formulation. The resulting emulsions are known as pseudoemulsions. By using Aristoflex AVC, emulsifier-free cream gels can be obtained, opening the way to new, modern formulations with special rheological properties (creamy but not "jelly-like", not sticky) and excellent skin acceptance. The compositions obtained in this way differ from similar compositions with "traditional" thickeners. The stabilising effect of Aristoflex AVC is due to the cross-linked structure of the polymer, which provides the ultimate shear stress and allows oil droplets or particles, such as pigments, to be "trapped" in the water-polymer structure.

By adding 1% Aristoflex AVC, you can obtain a stable pseudoemulsion containing at least 16% oils. In this case, you simply need to introduce the oils into the previously prepared Aristoflex gel. Read the specifics of preparing the pseudoemulsion a little below.
 

Cosmetic properties and advantages

1. Aristoflex AVC gives the skin the effect of freshness, makes it silky and soft in combination
2. with plant extracts used in the formulation promotes effective skin cleansing
3. has a mild lifting effect
4. has an active influence on the intensity and duration of skin exposure to biologically active substances
5. is used in preparations used in the treatment of demodecosis and blepharitis
6. shows resistance to ultraviolet radiation
7. is a stabilising component in the introduction of sunlight.
    

You can use Aristoflex in the following recipes

• in creams as a thickener and stabiliser of the aqueous phase
• for cold cream production
• as a basic gelling agent in serums
• to stabilise emulsions and gelthe introduction of UV actives in sunscreens production
• in oil-free gels and light day products for oily skin
• used in foaming hair cleansers frequent ingredient in aftershave products
• is the basis for masks, peelings and scrubs due to its stabilising properties and wide working pH range
• is used to make mattifying products with the addition of Evermat or PoreAway assets.
   

Buying Aristoflex is easy, but what to do with it next?

Let's look at the peculiarities of working with this thickener. There are several variations of working with it:

1. Introduction of Aristoflex AVC into the oil phase: Aristoflex is mixed with the oil phase (oils, emollients), heated to 80°C, separately on the "water bath" we heat the water phase to the same temperature. When both phases reach the same temperature, introduce the aqueous phase into the oil phase and mix with a mini-mixer.
2. Introducing Aristoflex AVC into the aqueous phase: Introduce Aristoflex batchwise while stirring into the aqueous phase. Swelling of the gel-forming gel starts almost immediately after its introduction into the aqueous phase. After complete dissolution of the powder and obtaining a stable gel, you need to add the oil phase to the aqueous phase in small portions and stir constantly. In this way emulsion can be prepared both "cold" and "hot". If prepared "cold", stir until a stable and beautiful emulsion is obtained. In case of "hot" preparation, the mixing is continued until the emulsion cools down completely.
3. Introducing Aristoflex AVC in the final step: add the thickener after the oil and water phases are combined. The required or desired viscosity is achieved during the mixing process. Regardless of the method of application of Aristoflex AVC, homogenisation of the emulsion or cream gel is recommended at the final stage. Aqueous gels (hair gels) are prepared by adding the aqueous phase to Aristoflex AVC. Good homogenisation is recommended. The transparency of the resulting aqueous gel depends on the concentration of Aristoflex AVC. When 1% or more of Aristoflex AVC is added, the gel is generally transparent.
4. If the gel is slightly cloudy, approx. 5 % of solvent, e.g. glycerol, can be added. The best gel transparency is achieved with demineralised water, which is relatively free of metal ions.

Aristoflex AVC is well compatible with polar organic solvents, allowing the production of aqueous-alcohol gels with an ethanol content of more than 50%. Typically, a water-alcohol mixture is added to Aristoflex AVC. Ethanol can be used to dissolve the active ingredients and thus avoid the introduction of solubilisers such as PEG-40 , polysorbate-80 or other components. In this way, it is easier to prepare an aqueous-alcohol gel containing perfume oil, oil-soluble UV filters, active ingredients (in particular, bisabolol), film-forming substances.

For the production of water-alcohol gels with Aristoflex AVC, it is best to first prepare an aqueous gel and gradually introduce a solution of active ingredients dissolved in ethanol. It is technologically preferable to use an anchor stirrer with low rotational speed to reduce the formation of air bubbles.

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.