Azelaic acid 10 g

The best ingredient for problem skin

Azelaic acid is an organic acid that is used to treat acne. It has keratolytic, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. It is widely used in the treatment of acne of mild and moderate severity.

Characteristics of the component and peculiarities of use

INCI: Azelaic acid

Form of release: can be supplied in both powder and flake form.

Dosage: 5 - 20%.  In 20% concentration azelaic acid has a pronounced bleaching effect (destruction of active melanocytes and discoloration of formed pigment).

Solubility: in ethanol, acetone, diethyl ether. Partially soluble in fatty oils, which should be heated beforehand. 

Storage: in a dark dry place at temperature up to 25 C. Keep away from moisture and direct sunlight.

Precautions for the use of cosmetic acids read the article from Beurre “Precautions when working with AHA/BHA acids”.

Action in cosmetics

In cosmetology, azelaic acid has bacteriostatic activity against Propionibacterium acne - propionibacterium bacteria that contribute to acne, as well as against Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus aureus and others. The antibacterial action of the drug is manifested both on the surface of the skin and in the sebaceous glands. Azelainka reduces the production of fatty acids that contribute to acne, reduces the formation of comedones. Influencing the process of keratinization of epidermal cells, the acid inhibits the growth and activity of abnormal melanocytes that cause hyperpigmentation such as melasma. It has an anti-acne, depigmenting effect. 

Well, we found out that azelaic acid has two main vectors of action on our skin. First of all, it can be noted that after a few weeks of using creams with azelaic acid, the number of bacteria on the skin is significantly reduced. It is important that this does not form strains that are resistant to the action of azelaic acid. Therefore, it is effective for prolonged use and does not cause “addiction”.

In addition to antibacterial action, azelaic acid prevents keratinization of the upper layer of the skin, so it prevents pore clogging and the appearance of comedones (black dots on the skin). Keratolytic action of azelaic acid is expressed in slowing down the processes of keratinization and destruction of comedones. Thus, azelaic acid, having a significant effect on keratinization, promotes self-cleansing of the ducts of sebaceous glands. Clinically, this occurs very gently, imperceptibly, without causing flaking, which happens when using topical retinoids.

Anti-inflammatory effect of azelaic acid is expressed in the inhibition of the synthesis of the production of free fatty acids, which have an irritating effect and trigger the mechanism of inflammation in the skin.

In addition, under the action of azelaic acid slows down the formation of age spots. It is able to inhibit the synthesis of DNA and RNA in melanocytes, inhibit tyrosinase. The beneficial effect of azelaic acid in chloasma and anti-inflammatory melanoderma is due to its effect on hyperactive melanocytes, but with such selectivity of action can not be treated and bleached freckles, pigmented seborrheic warts, senile warts, keratomas, pigmented nevi, lentigo. Very importantly, the use of azelaic acid does not lighten areas of normal skin. Thus, of particular interest are reports of successful use of 20% azelaic acid for chloasma, congestive pigmented spots after acne, traumatic pigmentation caused by physical trauma, burns, or other inflammatory skin conditions.

Recent scientific work has shown the antioxidant activity of azelaic acid, which together with its other effects makes it an effective cosmetic ingredient.
 

Where azelaic acid is used

Azelaic acid has been successfully used in the treatment of a number of dermatologic conditions, as many of its biological effects have been discovered. A number of authors have successfully used 20% azelaic acid topically to reduce S.Aureus in patients with complicated eczema. 20% azelaic acid in the form of ointment is a highly effective drug for the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis, seborrheic eczema. The best results were achieved with pronounced desquamation, moderate hyperemia, but without exudative phenomena. Azelaic acid is also an effective and relatively mild treatment for inflammation and lesions characteristic of mild to moderate rosacea, with or without the involvement of the demodex mite.
 

Main cosmetic properties

• An agent for the treatment of acne
• Has antimicrobial activity against Propionibacterium acne and Staphylococcus epidermidis.
• Reduces the content of free fatty acids in skin lipids.
• Normalizes the disturbed processes of keratinization in the follicles of sebaceous glands.
• Normalizes the process of keratinization of epidermal cells - prevents the formation of comedones. 
• Blocks the synthesis of melanin in the skin. 
• Inhibits the action of abnormal melanocytes that cause hyperpigmentation.
• Has antioxidant activity.
• Relieves signs of post-acne.
• May be useful as a hair growth stimulant.
   

Indications for use

• Acne vulgaris (Acne vulgaris)
• Seborrheic dermatitis
• Pathological hyperpigmentation 
• Rosacea
• Chloasma
• Melasma.
   

Where to use azelaic acid: ointment or cream

• Skin care products (treatment of acne, redness and rosacea; reduction of sebum hyperfunction, elimination of hyperpigmentation, improvement of complexion)
• Products for skin rehabilitation after acne treatment to relieve post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
• Facial cleansers
• pH regulator
• Buffer component in cosmetics.
   

Therapeutic effect of acid: why you should buy it

To get a visible effect, use products containing azelainka should be used externally 2 times a day. The course of treatment - 2-6 months (in the treatment of melasma - at least 3 months). Clinical improvement comes on average after 2-4 weeks of treatment.

Cream or gel applied to pre-cleaned affected areas of the skin and lightly rubbed 2 times a day. Means with azelaic acid should be applied to clean, dry skin with a thin layer. After the application of products with azelaic acid must wash your hands.

A broad spectrum sunscreen (UVB and UVA) should be used throughout the treatment period to prevent sun-induced aggravation and/or re-pigmentation of lightened areas.

If a repeat course of treatment is necessary, it is recommended to take a break in the use of the drug for 1-2 months.
Melasma, located in the epidermis or simultaneously in the epidermis and dermis, is well amenable to treatment. If melasma is located only in the dermis, it is not susceptible to such treatment.
 

Contraindications, harm and precautions

If you are hypersensitive to azelaic acid - do not use it. Cosmetics with azelaic acid should always be tested for sensitivity and allergies. Rarely (mainly at the beginning of therapy) it can cause skin irritation, erythema, burning sensation, itching, peeling (they pass independently in the course of further treatment). Avoid contact with eyes, as well as with mucous membranes of the nose, lips and mouth, on wound surfaces. In case of accidental contact with eyes and other mucous membranes, they should be washed immediately with water. 

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.