Azelaic acid (micronized) 5 g

Azelaic acid as a remedy for problem skin and pigment spots

A brand new form of azelaic acid from the Taiwanese company Corum is a micronized component, making it easier to incorporate into any formulas. Azelaic acid is completely of plant origin with Ecocert certification, it is used in cosmetics against acne and in skin brightening products.

Characteristics of the component and specifics of use

INCI: Azelaic Acid

CAS No.: 123-99-9

Particle size: 15 μm max.

Dosage (percentage of input into cosmetics): 1-20 %. Do not use undiluted on the skin.

Solubility: disperse in the base. When working with azelaic acid it is important to realize that they are not completely dissolved in anything, the main thing is to disperse it evenly in the cosmetic product. It should be added to the fatty phase of the product or to an already prepared warm emulsion at a temperature below 50 °C.

Storage: long-term storage is recommended in a dark place at temperatures up to +25 °C, protect from direct sunlight and overheating.

Certification: Ecocert, COSMOS, Vegan, HALAL, China IECIC.

Mechanism of action

Azelaic acid is an acne remedy that has antibacterial and comedonolytic action. It is effective against a number of skin diseases, including mild to moderate acne. Cosmetics with azelaic acid help stop the growth of acne-causing skin bacteria and keep skin pores clear. Azelaic acid is also a reversible tyrosinase inhibitor, having a whitening effect on the skin.

Effectiveness and properties when used in cosmetics

Micronized azelaic acid shows a high degree of effectiveness in the fight against acne, especially comedones, papulo-pustular acne and nodulo-cystic acne.

Photosensitivity: the content of 20% azelaic acid in the cosmetic does not cause phototoxicity or photosensitivity.

Skin hyperpigmentation: 20% azelaic acid in the cosmetic has an excellent ability to treat melanoderma without undesirable side effects.

Scalp care: 20% of azelaic acid in the cosmetic product has the efficacy to renew hair growth.

The following cosmetic properties of azelaic acid have been independently tested:

1. Antibacterial action: inhibits the growth of Propioni bacteria (P. acnes) involved in the development of acne and the production of fatty acids that contribute to acne.
2. Anti-keratinization: it has keratolytic and comedonolytic action by inhibiting the synthesis of DNA and other proteins, especially in keratinocytes and filaggrin.
3. Reduces 5-a reductase: provides sebostatic effect by inhibiting 5-a reductase and DG activity

Clinical studies

Study of the anti-acne action of micronized azelaic acid

The purpose of this study is to investigate the efficacy and tolerability of azelaic acid emulsion in the treatment of acne. 100 participants aged 13-40 years used 20% azelaic acid emulsion twice daily for 2 months. Method of evaluation: dermatologist + self-assessment. Prevalence of common acne:

• Acne Comedonica 35%
• Acne Papulo-postulosa 46%
• Acne nodulo-cystica 19%.

The results show that topical application of azelaic acid emulsion is effective in treating mild to moderate acne vulgaris in 90% of volunteers.

Study of the anti-acne effect of micronized azelaic acid on acne vulgaris

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the efficacy of azelaic acid on mild to moderate acne vulgaris. Participants in a proportion of 30/30 aged 15-35 years used 20% azelaic acid gel twice daily for 2 months. Method of evaluation: number of comedones, papules and pimples on the face. The results show that topical application of azelaic acid gel is effective in reducing the number of comedones, papules and pustules in 45 days.

Study of the efficacy of azelaic acid against pigmentation

Purpose: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of 20% azelaic acid cream for the treatment of facial hyperpigmentation in dark-skinned patients.

Participants: 52 adults (7 males, 45 females), mean age 36 years, used 20% azelaic acid cream twice daily for 24 weeks.

Skin type: phototype IV, V, or VI (Dark-skinned according to the Fitzpatrick classification).

Skin condition: moderate melanoderma or other facial hyperpigmentation.

Method: chromametric analysis.

Result: patients receiving azelaic acid cream compared to placebo cream had a greater reduction in pigmentation intensity. Most patients who received the acid cream reported having much smoother skin.

Uses in recipes

• Treatment of pimples, acne and blackheads
• Control of sebum secretion
• Prevention of hyperpigmentation and scarring from acne and pimples
• Lightening of skin and age spots
• Prevention of hair loss
• Restore the balance of keratinization.

Micronized azelaic acid can be used in water-based gels, emulsions and creams, as well as in anhydrous oil-free stick formulations (these can be created using EB-21/GP-1 oil thickeners). For your formulation inspiration, the manufacturer of micronized azelaic acid shares cosmetic options.

Handmade cosmetics recipes and reviews

If you are new to cream making - it is very difficult to make your own right recipe. And that's where we are ready to help you. Go to youtube channel Cosmetic Kitchen Beurre, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology of making cosmetics with their own hands.

And also go to Beurre's Blog, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.