Emollient ELDEW PS-203R 10 g

Eldew Emollient for skin and hair regeneration

A natural herbal emollient based on L-Glutamic acid and phytosterols. It mimics type III ceramides found in the skin and hair cell membrane complex. Eldew helps to restore the barrier function of the stratum corneum, protecting the skin from moisture, revitalising the skin after sun exposure, inflammation and irritation. The emollient is completely natural, has a high degree of biodegradability and is environmentally friendly.

Characteristics of the component and features of use

INCI: Phytosteryl/ Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

To stabilise the emollient, 0.01% tocopherol is included.

Dosage (percentage of input in cosmetics):

• 0.2 - 2% in hair cosmetics
• 1 - 5% in face and body cosmetics
• up to 5% in lip care and decorative cosmetics.

Solubility: in oil.

Usage: stable at temperatures up to 80 °C. Eldew PS-203R disintegrates when heated in a highly alkaline environment, therefore it is recommended to maintain a pH range of 4.0 - 10.0.

Storage: it is recommended to store in a cool dark place, protect from direct sunlight and overheating.

Ceramide-like emollients based on amino acids

Emollients developed by the Japanese company Ajinomoto are the result of research in the field of amino acids and skin moisturising mechanisms. In healthy skin, an appropriate balance of moisture content is maintained through the action of natural moisturising factor (NMF) and intercellular lipids or lipophilic components in the stratum corneum.These two components use two different moisturising mechanisms. Intercellular lipids form lamellar liquid crystals with a bimolecular membrane. These crystals "work" as a barrier to retain moisture and prevent foreign bodies from entering from the outside.

As for hair, many scientists believe that the hair's cell-membrane complex, which fills the space between the cuticle and the cortex, also plays an important role in conditioning the hair and keeping it healthy.

Ajinomoto has developed the Eldew series of amino acid emollients based on the skin's intercellular lipid model and the hair cell-membrane complex. All emollients of this series are based on L-Glutamic acid, fatty acids of natural origin, higher alcohols and phytosterols or cholesterols. Ajinomoto's research has confirmed that Eldew emollients stimulate the formation of lamellar liquid crystals identical to ceramides. Thus, these emollients provide an emollient action comparable to the effectiveness of ceramides.
 

Using Eldew PS face and body

Emollient is based on glutamic acid and phytosterol. It mimics the type III ceramides found in the skin. This emollient helps to restore the barrier function of the stratum corneum and increases the moisture level in the skin. Eldew PS revitalises the skin from after sun exposure, inflammation and damage.

• Eldew does not linger only on the surface of the skin and penetrates into deeper layers of the skin, thus having a moisturising effect on the stratum corneum. There is also a direct correlation between the amount of cream applied and the level of absorption of the emollient. A cream containing 3% Eldew was tested and the result showed that the more cream applied to the skin, the better its penetration into the deeper layers of the skin.
• Eldew is an amino-ceramide complex that repairs damaged skin by mimicking the vesicular structure and properties of type III ceramides.
• Eldew reduces trans-epidermal moisture loss (TEWL) and restores the skin barrier. It helps to retain moisture in the skin.
• Eldew is an excellent moisturiser with a moisture retention capacity of 4-6 times its own weight.
  
• Eldew improves the skin condition of damaged skin and improves skin texture. A drop of emollient was applied to the skin in a 5 cm area of the lower leg after daily bathing for 1 week. The skin surface was observed before and after application using a microscope.
  
• Applying cosmetics with Eldew PS on healthy skin helps prevent damage that leads to the loss of lipids and NMF constituents from the skin, which ultimately makes the skin dry and accelerates skin aging.
• Eldew PS does not cause comedones and is suitable for all skin types and ages.
• It is recommended to use creams and shower gels with Eldew PS to maintain skin integrity.
   

Using an emollient to restore hair structure

The problem of brittle and dry hair, dull and damaged hair, coloured and split hair is very common. However, it is the condition of our hair that has a significant impact on our appearance and mood today. And an ingredient like Eldew PS-203R helps to repair damaged hair, make hair healthy and prevent further damage. Typically, damaged hair is characterised by a "cracked" and open cuticle, where the hair is not smooth but has a scaly appearance. As a result, hair becomes more porous and brittle, and loses elasticity and lustre.
 

Factors that damage hair

• Mechanical influences: harsh brushing, improper combing, used curlers.
• Environmental factors: UV rays, pollution, salt and chlorinated water can contribute to the breakdown of chemical bonds in the hair structure.
• Heat from sunlight can also dry out hair and make it more vulnerable.
• Hot temperatures: curling irons, straightening irons, hair dryers break the bonds in the hair, damaging the hair structure.
• Chemical exposure: colouring, bleaching and perming treatments penetrate the outer protective cuticle. The perming chemicals break disulfide bonds (which hold the polypeptide chains of keratin together), causing hair damage.
• Health: bad hair can be a sign of some health problem, poor diet, vitamin and mineral deficiencies. In addition, medications can have a direct effect on the condition of your hair.
   

What Eldew PS does for hair is at the cell membrane complex (CMC) level

CMC is a lipid layer between the structural elements of the hair (cuticle, cortex, cortical cells) that glues them together. However, when exposed to water, temperature and chemicals, this layer breaks down, causing the hair scales to stick together and disrupting the structure of the hair. The main function of Eldew emollient is to restore the cell-membrane complex, which leads to the regeneration of the hair itself. How it happens:

• Eldew mimics CMC, deposits on the hair and promotes long-lasting moisturisation. A 0.5% concentration of emollient in shampoo shows significant results.
• Eldew has a good affinity with the hair, shows high spreadability in the finished product and leaves the hair smooth without leaving greasiness.
• Eldew PS improves the hydrophobicity of the hair surface, thereby protecting the hair from water penetration and further CMC degradation. Tests have shown the effectiveness of the emollient in hair conditioner starting at a dosage of 0.5%.
• Eldew PS improves lathering, shampoo rinseability (the feel of the hair during rinsing) and sensory performance (the feeling of wet, saturated hair after washing). The emollient is effective at dosages from 0.1%, but the most significant results are seen at dosages from 0.5%.
• Eldew PS not only treats damaged hair but also prevents damage. It acts as a conditioning emollient that protects the hair from stress during washing. Colour-treated, bleached or permed hair needs it especially. Eldew PS in dosages from 0.5 per cent prevents this damage.
   

Eldew in the formulas of decorative and mineral cosmetics

Make-up is one of the tools that allow us to control our appearance and boost the self-esteem of every girl. Make-up is present on our face on a daily basis, so it is important to be conscious about the choice of ingredients in the formulation of decorative cosmetics. Eldew PS has significant physiological and aesthetic advantages over other emollients and has a positive effect on the overall well-being of the skin after applying cosmetics with it.

As in care cosmetics, Eldew PS has a strong moisturising and revitalising effect on the skin. Alongside this, the emollient has proven to be an excellent component for lipstick production. Thus, it:

• prevents the localisation of wax crystals and increases the stability of lipstick formulations. Below are the test results of several formulations with and without emollient. The components were melted at 90 °C for 5 minutes with stirring and then poured into glass vials. After storage for 10 months, they were observed in a polarising microscope
  
• improves the texture and firmness of the lipstick due to its high polarity (= High Dielectric constant). The high polarity and viscosity of Eldew PS helps to preserve the smaller crystal structure of the wax by creating a multi-dimensional rough surface with more connection points between the wax crystals. This makes the oil-wax structure strong
• gives a high level of shine to lip care products. The high gloss index creates the illusion of plump lips without physiological reaction with the lips
  
• the emollient has a high level of pigment dispersibility due to its high polarity. This property increases dispersion, making the colour homogeneous and brighter.
   

Application in natural cosmetics

Eldew emollients are used in various cosmetic products. Due to their high efficiency as emollients, they are suitable for use in skin care products (emulsions and serums), while their conditioning properties allow them to be used in hair care products (e.g. conditioners, oils and hair strengthening products). In addition, Eldew emollients are highly pigment dispersible and are often used in decorative cosmetics (such as make-up foundations, lipsticks and glosses).

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.