Emulsifier Amidet APA-22 30 g

An environmentally friendly conditioning agent for the creation of hair care products

Unique in its characteristics, Amidet APA-22 is a Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine emulsifier, i.e. a conditioning additive in all types of hair products. Its exclusivity lies in its eco-friendly profile and environmental friendliness compared to other conditioning emulsifiers. Being a non-ionogenic emulsifier by nature, Amidet APA-22 is often included in 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo formulations, and to make an effective conditioner, you can "activate" Amidet APA-22 with lactic acid to turn it into a cationic emulsifier.

Characteristics of the component and specifics of use

INCI: Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Type: a non-ionogenic emulsifier which is converted to a cationic emulsifier when activated by lactic acid.

Dosage (percentage of input into cosmetics): 1 - 5%. We indicate recommended input dosages, however, the optimal dosage for your formulation should be chosen independently depending on the complete composition of the cosmetic product and the presence of other active ingredients in the formulation:

• in shampoos up to 1.5%
• in conditioners and balms up to 3%
• in hair masks up to 5%

Solubility: dispersible in water or soluble in water when lactic acid is added.

Usage: melting point of the emulsifier is 75 - 82 °C. For the preparation of conditioning shampoos, it is recommended to introduce Amidet APA-22 into the hot (75 °C) aqueous phase until it is uniformly dispersed and then mixed with surfactants. To prepare conditioners, the emulsifier must be "activated" with lactic acid to convert it into a cationic emulsifier. Read more about how to do this below in the description. It is recommended to combine with cetearyl alcohol or Lanette O to create thick emulsions.

Storage: it is recommended to store in a cool, dark and dry place, protect from direct sunlight and overheating. 

Use of Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine in hair cosmetics

The conditioning properties of Amidet APA-22 exceed those of commonly used cationic surfactants, providing a superior sensory profile and improved combing glide.

In hair conditioners, Amidet acts as a cationic surfactant, leaving hair smooth and silky, removing static charge and adding shine. Moreover, the emulsifier is used as a conditioning and protective agent in 2-in-1 shampoos, and as a gelling and hair protection agent in hair colour creams.

This versatility in application and high performance profile, together with good biodegradability and low aquatic toxicity, makes Amidet APA-22 an environmentally interesting alternative for the hair care market.
 

How to incorporate Amidet APA-22 into your recipes

Amidet APA-22 emulsifier can act as a conditioning agent in its cationic form, while it is nonionic in origin. To activate the cationic conditioning ability, the product must be acidified in a certain way. The recommended procedure for adding Amidet APA-22 to hair rinse products is as follows:

1. Heat the aqueous phase to 80 °C
2. Add the required amount of lactic acid and stir (0.28-0.3 per 1 % emulsifier should be 0.28-0.3 per 80 % lactic acid).
3. Add the emulsifier and stir until the solution becomes completely transparent.

If you are preparing a conditioner, you can melt separately the aqueous phase and Amidet APA-22 and the fatty phase with cetearyl alcohol. Then, after neutralising and melting the Amidet APA-22 in the aqueous phase, you can pour the GF into the WF while stirring constantly. At the beginning you will think that the emulsion is liquid and does not thicken even after cooling down. But remember that the final viscosity of the emulsion will become much thicker after 24 hours.

Main cosmetic properties

Hair conditioners are used to give hair a number of benefits such as making it easier to comb, adding shine and smoothness, providing anti-static properties and improving manageability. To analyse the benefits of Amidet APA-22, we will compare it to various cationic surfactants. The formulations that are compared use 1.5% active cationic constituent and 3% cetearyl alcohol (lactic acid where necessary). Final pH = 4.

Amidet APA-22 can be equalled to Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) in terms of combing efficiency, but Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC) and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (SAPDMA) are inferior. Amidet APA-22 and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (SAPDMA) show the best antistatic effect, significantly inferior to Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) and Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC). The viscosity of the finished products was also compared, where Amidet APA-22 showed significantly higher viscosity than CTAC and BTAC. 

In sensory evaluation, the overall performance of Amidet APA-22 is the best among the four cationic surfactants studied, clearly better in terms of wet combing, wet smoothness and hair manageability control.

Another great advantage of Amidet APA-22 is that it does not accumulate on the hair, preventing hair stickiness and volume loss.
 

Use in conditioning shampoos

Conditioning shampoos usually contain cationic polymers and/or silicones to improve combability and smoothness of the hair. Amidet APA-22 in its non-ionogenic form plays a similar role, which has a positive effect on the production cost of the entire formula. It also acts an additional thickening action in the shampoo formulation. The graph below shows that the addition of 0.5% Amidet APA-22 has a similar reduction in combing power as the addition of 0.3% Polyquaternium-10 in a standard hair rinse formulation, so full substitution is possible. Conditioning Shampoo Recipe.

Colour protection in shampoos

The main task of a shampoo for coloured hair is to cleanse the hair without removing the colouring agents absorbed in it. Amidet APA-22 emulsifier has proven to play an important role in minimising colour loss during hair washing, as it settles on the hair surface and keeps the hair dye attached to the hair fibre. Some framework formulations incorporating Amidet APA-22 as a non-ionic surfactant have been developed, which markedly improve colour retention compared to other market leading products. 

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.