Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) 5 g

Stable form of vitamin C as an antioxidant and skin brightening agent

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a water-soluble, stable form of vitamin C and a highly effective antioxidant that improves collagen synthesis and reduces wrinkles. The component has a whitening effect and also restores and protects the skin from damage caused by sunlight. Ethyl ascorbic acid is a derivative of ascorbic acid and, after penetration into the skin, is metabolized to vitamin C. But the main advantage of this form of the vitamin is its effectiveness and stability, which is several times higher than other forms of vitamin C, such as Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and others. Therefore, the high price of the component is offset by its effectiveness and low input dosage.

Characteristics of the component and features of use

INCI: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

CAS: 86404-04-8

Appearance: White to off-white crystalline powder

Dosages: 0.1 - 3.0%

pH (3% aqueous solution): 3.5 - 5.0

Solubility: in water. Also soluble in ethanol, polyols and up to 10% in butylene glycol

Features of use: enter into the active phase at temperatures below 40 C. Vitamin C remains stable in the pH range of the finished product from 5.6 to 7.0, but exhibits the best stability at pH 6.5. To increase the stability of the finished product and prevent possible changes in the pH of the finished formula, it is recommended to use a 1% citrate buffer. It is also recommended to use chelators, which you can try to replace the citrate buffer solution. Compliance or non-compliance with these recommendations does not in any way affect the effectiveness of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.

Storage: Store in a dark, cool, dry place, avoid direct sunlight.

Description of Ethyl ascorbic acid

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a normal component of human skin and is concentrated in the dermis and epidermis. This vitamin is one of the most widely used antioxidants to protect the skin. It can also inhibit tyrosinase activity and therefore reduce melanin production and lighten the skin. Vitamin C also protects the skin from free radical damage caused by UV radiation, which is associated with skin aging, so its use is extremely important in cosmetics during sunny periods.
 

Effectiveness of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid compared to other forms of vitamin C

Tyrosinase inhibition

In the table below, you can see a comparison of the three forms of vitamin C regarding the level of tyrosinase inhibition, which in turn leads to lightening of skin and age spots. Only 2 forms showed high efficiency from 0.5% input: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbic Acid, however, Ascorbic Acid is a very unstable form of vitamin C, which is almost impossible to stabilize in cosmetics.

Comparative characteristics of different forms of vitamin C

From the table below you can see how different the dosages are and, most importantly, what are the different requirements regarding the pH level of the finished product with one or another form of vitamin C. For example, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphat (MAP) requires that the acidity of the finished product be from 7.0 and above, and Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) - more than 6.5. These requirements do not quite fit into the recommended acidity range for cosmetics. But Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside allow you to create cosmetics with a slightly acidic pH level that is familiar to our skin; moreover, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid shows high efficiency even at a dosage of 1%.

Basic cosmetic properties

• reduces melanin production
• acts as an antioxidant
• increases collagen production
• reduces the progression of wrinkles and reduces fine lines
• improves skin brightening, radiance and even skin tone
• reduces and restores sun damage to the skin.
   

The main benefits of this form of vitamin C

• combines with Ferulic Acid/Ethyl Ferulate/Tannic acid
• the shelf life of the component itself is 2 years without special storage conditions
• stable for more than 90 days under various conditions (at 45°C, -15°C, room temperature and under exposure to light)
• easily soluble in water
• allows you to create cosmetics with a slightly acidic pH familiar to the skin.

Handmade cosmetics recipes (formulas) and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.