AHA Fruit acids 10 g

Fruit acids and their use in cosmetics

AHA, or α-hydroxy acids, are a popular component in cosmetic products. Such acids directly affect the skin at all levels: tissue, cellular and molecular. The most common hydroxy acids are recognized as: fruit acids, lactic acid, tartaric acid. The name “fruit” acids received due to the fact that they were first discovered in fruits.

Precautions when using cosmetic acids read in the article from Beurre “Precautions when working with AHA/BHA acids”.

Component Characteristics and Usage Specifics

INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Glycolic Acid (And) Sucrose (and) Urea (and) Sodium Citrate (and) Malic Acid (and) Tartaric Acid

Core Concentration: 46-50%

pH: 3.5 - 4.5

Dosage (percentage of input into cosmetics): 1-15%. Do not use undiluted on the skin. For permanent use it is recommended to use 1-5%, for peeling effect - 5-15% of the total mass of the finished product. It is desirable that the pH of the finished product ranges from 3.5 to 5.5.

Solubility: in water at temperatures up to 40 °C.

Storage: long-term storage is recommended in a dark place at a temperature of 4-7 °C, protect from direct sunlight. Temporary transportation at a different temperature is permitted.

The content of acids in our AHA complex is as follows:

• Lactic: 28-32%.
• Glycolic: 12-17%.
• Citric: 2-6%.
• Apple: less than 1%.
• Wine: less than 1%.

Cosmetic features of AHAs

Natural fruit acids provide removal of the skin's top keratin scales, a process commonly referred to as chemical peeling. The acids also moisturize the skin and retain moisture for a longer period of time, increase the skin's immune defense, and renew cells, leaving the skin soft, velvety and supple.

α-hydroxy acids have a number of beneficial effects on the skin:

1. Moisturize and retain moisture, preventing the skin from becoming dry and stiff again.
2. Enable the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans. As a result of this process, a bright rejuvenating effect is observed.
3. Have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect, which eliminates inflammation, redness, flaking and other skin defects.

It is important to remember: the lower the pH level of a cosmetic product with fruit acids, the faster they are absorbed into the skin. Such substances are characterized by high activity, penetrate deeper into the structure of the epidermis.
Particles of glycolic acid are very small - larger molecules in lactic, grape, malic, tartaric and citric acids. Glycolic acid is characterized by a pronounced keratolytic activity, leading among fruit acids - it provides instant skin softening and velvety skin.
Lactic acid is used as an active moisturizer. Studies have proven that thanks to it increases the production of glycosaminoglycans.
Citric acid provides collagen synthesis, and malic acid and tartaric acid help to increase skin elasticity. The most vivid effect is achieved when using 3 acids at the same time.

Features of using fruit acids

• Oily skin: through exfoliation, the sebaceous glands are cleaned to prevent clogged pores and the appearance of blackheads.
• Dry skin: AHA action on the skin removes dead skin scales, which facilitates the penetration of moisturizers into the skin. Normal softness, skin pattern and moisturization levels are gradually restored.
• Mature skin: layers of horny envelopes are gradually exfoliated, allowing nutrients to penetrate deep into the skin to restore structure. AHAs prevent the deepening of old wrinkles and the appearance of new ones.

Photosensitization

In 1997, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel (a cosmetic ingredient review panel funded by the Cosmetic and Toiletry Fittings Association (CTFA)) - concluded that AHA glycolic acid and lactic acid and their chemical derivatives are safe for use under the following conditions:

• The concentration of AHA acids is less than 10% (that is up to 20% of our complex)
• The acidity of the finished product with AHA acids is greater than pH 3.5.
• The finished formula of the cream contains substances that protect the skin from photosensitivity or the packaging of the product explicitly states the need to use sunscreen.
• For professional products with AHA acids, formulas with a concentration of glycolic and lactic acids of less than 30% and pH 3.0 or higher, intended only for short exposure and rinsed off the face, are recognized as safe. Daily use of sunscreen is required at the same time.

Handmade cosmetics recipes and reviews

If you are new to cream making - it is very difficult to make your own right recipe. And that's where we are ready to help you. Go to youtube channel Cosmetic Kitchen Beurre, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology of making cosmetics with their own hands.

And also go to Beurre's Blog, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.