Thickener Lecigel 30 g

Lecigel lecithin gelling agent in cosmetics

Lecigel is a phospholipid-based gelling agent that also has emulsifying properties and creates beautiful textures without weighing down the formula, stickiness or greasiness. The development by French company Lucas Meyer won a gold medal at in-cosmetics 2015. Lecigel consists of a polymer and lecithin, designed to stabilise and thicken creams with excellent absorption properties.

Characteristics of the component and specifics of use

INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (1) (and) Lecithin (2)

CAS №: 25549-84-2 (1), 8002-43-5 (2)

Appearance: white to beige coloured powder.

Dosage: 0.1 - 2%

• as a basic gelling agent: 0.5 - 2%
• as emulsifier for cream-gels: 0.5 - 2% (binds up to 20% of oil at 2% input)
• as a viscosity regulator for all types of emulsions: 0.5 - 2%
• as a stabiliser for all types of emulsions: 0.1 - 2%

Solubility: in water and in oil

Specifics of use: the thickener can be introduced both into the aqueous phase to create gels and into the fatty phase. Lecigel is effective when added to both cold and hot bases. When used as a viscosity regulator, Lecigel can be added at the end of the process. The pH of the finished product with thickener should be within the range of 4.0 to 8.0. Limited compatibility with sunscreen (titanium and zinc oxides) due to acrylates. Compatible with ethanol up to 50%. See the different ways to work with the thickener in this video.

Storage: in a cool, dry place without access to moisture and light in tightly closed packaging at temperatures below 25 °C.

Importance of phospholipids in cosmetics

The success of a cosmetic formula depends primarily on its tactile properties when applied to the skin, as well as the first sensation when the cream or gel is absorbed. Therefore, modern technologists face a serious task - to create a delicate, light and non-greasy cosmetic emulsion (gel, gel-cream), but which at the same time will not be ‘empty’. The choice of emulsifying system is key to the success of a cosmetic product, which is why many people are attracted to functional components such as phospholipid-based gel formers.

Phospholipids are important components of the cell membranes of all living organisms. Organised as two layers, they form a selective and protective barrier that regulates cell life. Thus, when applied topically, phospholipids have a strong affinity for the stratum corneum and are able to fuse with it. This special biocompatibility and biomimeticism gives unique properties to phospholipid-based emulsifiers.

Phospholipids derived from various plant sources (soya, sunflower seeds, etc.) have been used for decades in the cosmetic industry mainly as a natural and skin-friendly emulsifier. Their molecular structure consists of a hydrophilic part (polar head) and a lipophilic part (two fatty acid tails). This amphiphilic character explains their emulsifying properties. 
 

A versatile thickener and emulsifier for natural recipes

Lecigel is a phospholipid-based gel-forming ingredient (contains lecithin in its composition) with emulsifying properties, designed to create a delicate gel and gel-cream texture with a refined feel on the skin after application. Due to the various chemical and biological properties of phospholipids, Lecigel is able to provide moisturising properties on the skin, as well as enhancing the penetration of other actives into the deep layers of the skin. Moreover, phospholipids have been scientifically measured and proven to induce positive emotions. They provide a very recognisable sensation on the skin called ‘Phospholipid Touch’. The expert panel defined it as a cool, slippery, non-sticky, non-greasy and soft texture. Lecigel provides a unique and refined skin feel.
 

A gel-former with a moisturising effect

Moisturisation is a fundamental parameter of skin beauty. And our stratum corneum, which acts as a protective barrier and controls gradual evaporation and limits excessive transepidermal water loss (TEWL), is primarily responsible for the quality of moisture retention in the skin. As molecules identical to skin, phospholipids have a strong affinity with the stratum corneum and can enhance its barrier function, reducing TEWL and promoting long-lasting skin hydration. This effect is optimised by the presence of an acrylate copolymer, which induces the formation of a protective film. In addition, the polar head groups of the phospholipids are able to bind between 15 and 25 water molecules per molecule of phospholipid 2, thus helping to maintain the skin's water reserve. Cosmetic formulations with Lecigel in the composition provides an active base that contributes to the moisturising effect (the action is enhanced 1 hour after application and lasts up to 8 hours) of the finished product and complements the action of the active ingredients of the formula.

Lecigel as a delivery system for active ingredients

The effectiveness of an active ingredient depends on its properties, its concentration, and its bioavailability, which is directly related to the ability of active ingredients to penetrate through the skin into its deeper layers. It is often the integral stratum corneum that prevents the penetration of the assets. Its rigid lipid-lamellar structure is an extremely effective shield against unwanted compounds, but it also limits the penetration of the active molecules of the cosmetic composition. The stratum corneum is lipophilic and does not allow hydrophilic (water-soluble) compounds to easily penetrate. Therefore, the type of formula in which the active ingredients are assembled is crucial to improve their penetration through this protective shell. Gels and emulsions containing Lecigel have a high affinity for the skin, maintaining its integrity and ‘pulling’ the active ingredients of the formula deep into the skin. 
 

An experiment was conducted comparing

a gel consisting of 0.03% Hexapeptide and 2% Lecigel.
a solution consisting of 0.03% water-soluble Hexapeptide molecules dissolved in a hydroglycerol solution was used as a control.
After 24 hours, global quantification of the active molecule content showed that higher amounts of both formulations were found in the stratum corneum and epidermis. It can be clearly seen that the gel prepared with Lecigel increased the bioavailability (permeation) of the hexapeptide by 4.3-fold in living skin sections compared to the hydroglycerol solution (control without Lecigel).

Comfortable skin cooling with Lecigel

One of the most important characteristics of a cosmetic product is the sensory experience. By utilising cooling (Menthol) or warmth (Hotflux) effects in cosmetics, you enable the consumer to immediately feel the results of applying cosmetics, thus reinforcing the advantages of your cosmetics over other competitors.

A slight cooling effect is important in cosmetics that are used during the summer, especially in after-sun products and toiletries. In after-sun cosmetics, the coolness alleviates the sensation of inflammatory reactions that excessive sun exposure can cause. In skincare products and toiletries, cooling effects provide an instant refreshing effect that soothes the skin. 

Lecigel thickener-based cosmetics have been scientifically proven to reduce skin temperature, providing a safe cooling sensory experience. The cooling effect of the cosmetic formula is primarily due to the rate of evaporation of the water contained in the texture network during application, which leads to a reduction in skin temperature. It is the gel-like networks that rapidly release the blocked water during application, which accelerates its evaporation and provides a corresponding cooling effect. 

Lecigel is an essential gel-forming and emulsifying ingredient designed to create a texture with a surprising coolness. After application, everyone feels a delightfully refreshing effect, regardless of the composition of the formula: from water gel to oil cream. Thanks to a synergistic combination of phospholipids and acrylates, Lecigel offers unique structured formulas that melt upon application faster than most other gels and gel-creams. Thus, the released water evaporates faster on the skin, creating an intensely watery and refreshing sensation.

Main cosmetic properties and benefits of Lecigel

• Forms gel and gel-cream textures
• Versatile ingredient for a wide range of formulations
• Easy to use and available for home use
• Has excellent affinity for the stratum corneum of our skin, enhancing skin barrier function and preserving skin integrity
• Reduces TEWL, thereby improving overall skin moisturisation
• Improves skin penetration and bioavailability of active ingredients
• Helps to restructure and repair the skin.
   

In which recipes it is recommended to use the thickener

• Facial and body skin care cosmetics
• Baby cosmetics
• Sunscreen cosmetics as well as after-sun products (pay careful attention to formulating with physical filters)
• Various cleansers and detergents (shower gels, cleansers, soaps, etc.).
• Decorative cosmetics.

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.