NMF ( Natural Moisturising Factor) 30 g

Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) is a natural moisturizing complex

Italian-made NMF under the trade name Kemiderm NMF is a complex of molecules located on the surface of the horny scales that have the ability to attract moisture. It consists almost half of amino acids (40-48%) and their metabolites, the main of which is the salt of glutamic acid - sodium pyroglutamate or Sodium PCA.

Characteristics of the component and peculiarities of use

INCI: Aqua, Urea, Glucose, Sodium PCA, Sorbitol, Fructose, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Glutamate, Glycine, Lysine, Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide.

Dosage: 2 - 10%

Storage: at room temperature in a tightly closed bottle out of direct sunlight. 

Usage: soluble in water, glycerin, propylene glycol. For introduction into cosmetics NUV should be dissolved in the aqueous phase, active phase of the cosmetic product or introduced directly into a warm emulsion and stir thoroughly. Do not heat above 40 C.

Use of NUVs in cosmetics

Dry skin is expressed by symptoms such as roughness, tightness, tendency to irritation and flaking. In most cases, these symptoms are due to changes that occur when the topmost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, becomes dehydrated.

When the moisture content decreases, the stratum corneum becomes less transparent, making the skin look dull and grayish. In addition, the stratum corneum loses flexibility and may crack. This causes a feeling of tightness and leads to increased skin sensitivity, as allergens and irritants can easily penetrate through the cracks in the stratum corneum.

Dehydration also leads to disruption of the enzymes responsible for exfoliation of keratinized scales. In normal skin, each microscopic scale is exfoliated individually, which happens without us noticing. If the enzymes don't do their job, however, many of the scales remain stuck together, forming skin roughness and large, eye-visible scales.

The fact that the stratum corneum can become dehydrated despite frequent washing is due to the fact that the stratum corneum scales themselves cannot absorb and retain moisture. They have no cytoplasm or organelles and are not living cells. In order for the horny scales to absorb the moisture in the air or water used for washing, they must have molecules on them that act as sponges, attracting and holding water. These molecules have a common name - natural moisturizing factor. It is now known that NMF is the key factor that determines the moisturization of the stratum corneum. 

What natural moisturizing factor is made of

NUF is almost half made up of amino acids (40-48%) and their metabolites, the main one being sodium pyroglutamate or Na-PCA. It also includes minerals (18.5% sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and phosphates), honey, lactic acid salts, urea, glucosamine/creatinine, and finally glycerol, complexes of sugars, organic acids, and peptides (all together about 8.5%). 

The formation of NMF is closely linked to the growth and development of the main epidermal cells, the keratinocytes. As they develop, keratinocytes accumulate keratin and other proteins, which gradually fill their cytoplasm. In the final stages of transformation, keratinocytes spill out some of their contents, and with it a special protein called filaggrin. Enzymes are then put to work, which break down filaggrin into amino acids, which become the amino acids of NUVs. Reduced synthesis of filaggrin, which is observed, in particular, in ichthyosis and atopic dermatitis, leads to a decrease in the content of amino acids in the composition of NUV and a decrease in water-holding capacity. Since sufficient moisture is required for the enzymes involved in the hydrolysis of filaggrin to work, when dryness of the stratum corneum develops, the formation of NMF amino acids is also reduced. This can lead to the development of chronic dry skin. Moisturizing the stratum corneum with cosmetic products allows the stratum corneum to recover NMF more efficiently. 

How NFM behaves on the skin

Natural Moisturizing Factor can be called a “physiological” skin moisturizer. Its composition is similar to that of natural moisturizing factors and thus protects the skin from moisture loss or replaces lost factors. In contrast to strong hygroscopic substances such as glycerin (sorbitol), natural moisturizing factor does not dehydrate the skin when there is low atmospheric humidity. It can absorb as much water as the skin (same water-binding capacity), which is why it is adapted to the physiological functions of the skin. NUF allows us to increase the moisture content of the skin, resulting in good skin elasticity and density. 

If we buy NUF we get the following benefits that it performs

• adapts the physiological balance of moisture in the skin (moisturizes) 
• has the same water-binding capacity as human skin.
• protects the skin from moisture loss 
• increases skin elasticity 
• improves the mechanical properties of hair (elasticity and strength) 
• does not dehydrate the skin.

Restoring the natural moisturizing factor is a multi-step process. First of all, the dry stratum corneum must be moisturized and softened to reduce both the unpleasant sensations associated with dry skin and to create conditions for normal exfoliation of the skin and restoration of the natural moisturizing factor. 

To temporarily restore the moisture level in the skin, components of the natural moisturizing factor and their equivalents are used: amino acids, peptides (hydrolyzed proteins), glycerin, sodium pyroglutamate, urea, hyaluronic acid and simple sugars, mineral salts. Emollients are also necessary for additional skin softening and limiting moisture loss - usually they are either natural oils or silicones and esters of fatty acids. 

How to choose components for complex skin moisturizing

NSAIDs alone are unlikely to be enough to solve the problem of dry skin. To help you ask with the problem store Beurre has prepared a special article that will help you properly make a recipe for a cosmetic product aimed at moisturizing. Read the article How to choose components for skin moisturizing in our Blog.