Oil thickener GP-1 5 g

Oil gelling agent based on amino acid

The gelling agents EB-21 and GP-1 are highly effective agents based on the amino acid L-glutamic acid that transform liquid oil into a solid gel. In liquid oils, they form a nano-sized fibrous network and achieve completely different sensory characteristics than oil mixtures with added waxes. With EB-21 and GP-1 oil thickeners you can create transparent solid lipsticks, pleasant lip balms, sunscreen sticks, solid skin oils and much more.

Characteristics of the component and features of use

INCI of EB-21: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide

INCI of GP-1: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide

Appearance: fine powder of white colour

Dosage (percentage of input into cosmetics): 0.4% - 5%. It is possible to use in higher dosage in special products.

Solubility: in oil, emollients, silicones at very high temperature (90-120 C). The melting point of thickeners depends on the concentration of the thickeners themselves and the type of solvent to which they have been added. Read more below.

Storage: it is recommended to store in a dark cool place, protect from direct sunlight and moisture.

How to prepare a thick and transparent gel from oil

Before creating recipes with thickeners EB-21 and GP-1, we recommend that you carefully study the principles of working with these components. It is very important to decide what kind of product you want to create:

• dense oil gel
• transparent oil gel
• solid and transparent oil gel.

On this basis in the formulations you will need to stick to a certain ratio of both thickeners, and also take into account what solvents you will use for them.

The figure below shows samples that illustrate the level of transparency and hardness that can be obtained when the thickeners are used mono or combined in different proportions. The highest level of transparency and hardness was shown by the GP-1/EB-21 mixture in the proportion of 75/25. The combination of GP-1/EB-21 in a proportion of 60/40 was also effective. In the mono variant, both thickeners formed cloudy gels with a low level of hardness. The total content of thickeners or their mixture in mineral oil was 1%.

If we realise that the GP-1/EB-21 combination in a 3 to 1 ratio is ideal for maximum transparency, the hardness of the finished gel is not only affected by the proportion of thickeners. So, on the graph below you can see the dependence of hardness on the substance in which the gelling agents were dissolved. Thickener GP-1 showed the maximum hardness of the finished product when combined with A (silicones), E (mineral oils), D (esters). Thickener EB-21 showed thickening efficiency with A (silicones), B (fatty acids), C (triglycerides).

Temperature conditions for working with thickeners

Once we have understood the basic principles of creating a clear and solid gel, it is important to understand the process of gel creation itself. To do this, we need to pay attention to the percentage of gelling agents and the solvents in which they will be melted. For example, to melt 0.5 per cent GP-1 thickener, you would need to heat the mixture to 105 °C, and EB-21 thickener to 115 °C. And the higher the thickener content, the higher the melting point.

To reduce the melting point, you can follow these rules:

• use effective solvents for GP-1 and EB-21
• use GP-1 and EB-21 at the same time
• ready premix from the mixture of gelling agents in the solvent.

Below we provide a table of effective solvents and operating temperatures.

These solutions can be prepared in advance and then added to oil mixtures. Below we provide a graph where you can see the relationship between the total percentage of thickener input and the melting point in different solvents.

Therefore, to simplify further work with gelling agents, you can prepare a concentrated premix of thickeners and solvents.

1. For example, we take Octyldodecanol 75% emollient + 25% thickeners in the proportion of 3:2 (i.e. 15% GP-1 and 10% EB-21). Such a mixture should be heated to a temperature of 115-120 °C, after which it should be poured into a jar and used if necessary. It is best to heat the mixture in an oven or microwave, as a water bath will not heat the mixture to the required temperature.
2. The second option will allow you to make the premix at a lower temperature. For this, the manufacturer advises adding Hexyldecanol as the main solvent and adding Myristic Acid to it. Why it? Because smaller fatty acids can give a bad odour and using larger ones will be difficult to lower the temperature. The ideal and tested formula for the preparation of such premix is as follows:

Based on the formula we see that the melting point will be 103 °C and the solidification point 83 °C. Therefore, you will be able to introduce the other components of your recipe at temperatures below 90 °C, which is an important factor for some formulators. This formula can be further improved by adding Dextrin palmitate 4% and at the same time reducing Hexyldecanol by the same 4%. As a result, we can obtain perfectly clear and hard sticks.
 

How to choose a premix formula

When choosing a premix formula, keep in mind the importance of curing temperature and the type of cosmetic packaging you will use to store the finished cosmetic. Below we give the same formula for an oil stick that was prepared using premix 1 (Existing Tech) and premix 2 with the addition of Dextrin palmitate (New Tech-2). The premix content of the formula is 25%. Pay attention to the melting temperature (Dissolution temperature) and the temperature at which the product should be poured into the case (Filling temperature).

If the filling temperature is 105 °C, it is recommended to use aluminium or glass containers rather than plastic cases. Otherwise, the case may melt when the finished hot product is poured into the container.
 

How to further reduce the melting point of thickeners

The tests did not end with the component Dextrin palmitate and the most common ethanol helps to reduce the melting point. Adding 4% ethanol to the formula of premix 2 based on Hexyldecanol allows to reduce the melting point to 95 °C and the solidification temperature to 75 °C. This means that even plastic containers can be filled with the product.

The basic principles of the new generation of thickeners turn liquid oils and emollients into solid gels at low thickener concentrations gelators do not affect the sensory perception of the original oils due to the tiny fibres of the gelatinising agents allow the creation of a fully transparent gel or stick ensure the formation of a stable gel at high temperatures.

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.