Emulsifier OLIVEM 2090 30 g

Excellent natural emulsifier for creating W/O emulsions Olivem 2090

Olivem 2090 is an excellent natural emulsifier for creating reverse emulsions, developed by the Italian company Hallstar, which allows you to create reverse emulsions of water-in-oil (W/O) in a cold process. With this emulsion you can create sensory-enhanced sunscreens or revitalising moisturising creams, because the emulsifier provides biomimetic properties. The result is a stable, pleasant, natural, lightweight yet moisturising texture. The emulsifier is COSMOS approved and is suitable for vegan cosmetics because it is made from vegetable raw materials.

Component characteristics and usage

INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate

Dosage: the standard dosage is 2 - 4%, but there are formulations with 5% emulsifier on the market.

Use: suitable for the creation of water-in-oil emulsions both cold and hot. The addition of salt, magnesium sulphate and/or glycerine is required for stability of the resulting emulsion. In the standard formulations tested, 0.5% magnesium sulphate and 2% glycerol are added to the aqueous phase. The emulsifier is stable in the pH range of 3.0 - 10.0.

Features: the emulsifier is entirely of vegetable origin, does not contain preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, colourings, etc. Cosmos Certified. Suitable for making vegan cosmetics. Does not contain palm or palm kernel oil in its composition. Not phototoxic. 3% Olivem 2090 creates stable emulsions with an internal phase (i.e. water phase) content of 85% to 30%. Emulsion viscosity increases with increasing water content, creating textures from lotions to oils. Tolerates up to 10% alcohol without additional stabilisers.

Storage: in a dry, dark place in tightly closed packaging. Protect from direct sunlight, high humidity and heat.

Benefits of using W/O Emulsifier

This emulsifier is manufactured by Hallstar, an Italian company that is considered an expert in the olive oil products industry. They have developed the perfect one-component emulsifier for creating reverse emulsions that has high skin compatibility. You can use it to create light and fast absorbing emulsions with biomimetic properties. Olivem 2090 provides the following properties in recipes:

• light and nourishing emulsions that are quickly absorbed
• maximum skin affinity
• maintaining the integrity of the skin's protective barrier
• high spreadability during application and providing softness to the skin
• moisturising the skin and preventing TEWL.
   

The softening action of the emulsifier in cosmetics

Olivem 2090 consists of olive oil fatty acids, polyricinoleic acids that reduce ⇓ HLB and polyglyceryl 4 that increases ↑ HLB. As a result of this combination, Olivem 2090 creates a thick emulsifier layer that completely surrounds the water droplet, ensuring high stability of the final W/O formulation. The outer chains of olive fatty acids provide excellent sensory benefits and high skin compatibility. The olive oil in Olivem 2090 gives the cosmetic product moisturising properties similar to olive oil itself. And the finished formulation with Olivem 2090 leaves a maximum feeling of softness and velvety softness.

High compatibility of the emulsifier for reverse emulsions with other components

The main features of working with Olivem 2090 are high compatibility with various components, a wide working range of emulsifier pH (3.0 - 10.0), as well as the possibility to create fluid emulsions for lotions (for this purpose in the formulation it is necessary to increase the amount of oil) or thick rich textures (for this purpose it is necessary to increase the content of water phase). Below you can see a graph of the effect of emulsifier input percentage on the viscosity of the finished emulsion at an oil phase (emollient) content of 28-32%.

Below you can see a graph of the dependence of the viscosity of the finished emulsion with Olivem 2090 3% emulsifier on the amount of water phase. All formulas with a water content of 50% or less failed the test because the viscosity was below 600 cP. Formulas with water content of 60% or more are more effective. But the best viscosity performance with 3% emulsifier can be obtained with a water content of at least 80%, i.e. with less than 20% oil and/or emollients in the formula.

The great advantage of Olivem 2090 is its high compatibility with all types of oils: vegetable oils, mineral oils and esters, volatile emollients and silicones. With Olivem 2090 you can prepare sunscreens with any chemical filters, and the emulsifier also makes it easier to work with physical filters. For more viscous textures, thickeners such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrophilic colloidal silica, beeswax and Olivem 900 are recommended. The addition of 1-2% of these ingredients significantly increases the viscosity of the finished formula.
 

How Olivem 2090 is useful in sunscreen products

A huge benefit of this emulsifier is its dispersing properties when working with physical sunscreens such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Many people know that adding powders to the oil phase forms a thick paste that becomes difficult to work with. Olivem 2090 will reduce the content of the oil phase, which can be clearly seen in the graph below. The higher the percentage of Olivem 2090 in the formula, the more homogeneous the finished mix becomes.
 

How to make a proper and stable inverse emulsion with Olivem 2090

When creating water/oil (W/O) reverse emulsions, it is important to remember the basic rules that will give you a stable cosmetic product:

1. always add stabilisers: in recipes of reverse emulsions it is glycerin 1-3% and salt 1-2% (common salt, sea salt or magnesium sulphate).
2. remember the rule: the less oil and more water, the thicker the emulsion will be.
3. To make it more viscous, add PEG-40 up to 2%, beeswax up to 2%, hydrophilic silica or starches (corn and rice).

If you describe the process of creating an emulsion step-by-step, you need to follow these recommendations:

• mix all the components of the fatty phase with the emulsifier and stir until completely dissolved
• dissolve stabilisers (glycerin, salt, magnesium sulphate) in the aqueous phase
• combine the phases, always introduce the water into the oil in small portions, literally drip the water phase from a pipette and mix with a mixer while adding water or after each new addition of water.
• homogenise. If you do not have special equipment - then stir with a regular mixer and/or hands long and vigorously until you see that the emulsion becomes thicker (15-30 minutes).

The actives can be dissolved in the aqueous phase if you are working cold. Or you can prepare the active phase separately and introduce it at the last stage.
 

In which recipes Olivem 2090 can be used

• any face and body creams
• baby cosmetics
• sun protection cosmetics with mineral and/or organic filters
• decorative cosmetics, including lipsticks and cream shadows
• foundation and BB creams.

Regulatory basis for Olivem 2090 emulsifier

Non-irritating (HRIPT, HET-CAM)
Not phototoxic (3T3 NRU)
Does not contain heavy metals(ICH Q3D)
Not derived from palm or palm kernel oil
100% vegetable origin
ISO 16128 natural origin Index 1
COSMOS-certified
REACH-compliant (polymer as defined by REACH).

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.