PAP-ANGO ENZYME 10 g

Enzymes for Skin and Face Pap-ango Enzyme

An effective combination of fruit enzymes from papaya and mango provides gentle exfoliation of the skin, epidermal renewal and a significant brightening effect. With this ingredient you can prepare non-irritating facial and scalp peelings, suitable even for sensitive skin. Declared efficacy in peelings already at an input of 5%.

Characteristics of the component and peculiarities of use

INCI: Aqua, Carica Papaya (papaya) fruit extract, Mangifera Indica (mango) fruit extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment filtrate.

Appearance: liquid of pale yellow to amber color with acceptable dry sediment at the bottom.

Dosage (percentage of introduction in cosmetics): 1-10 %. Do not apply undiluted to the skin. It is recommended to start with small and medium dosages. 

Solubility: in water at temperature up to 60 C

Use: it is recommended to maintain the pH between 4.0 and 6.0 in the cosmetic product. However, research results confirm the maintenance of the component's activity in a wider pH range.

Storage: it is recommended to store in a dark, cool place, away from direct sunlight and overheating. 

Background and facts on the use of fruit extracts in cosmetics

Trends in natural skin and hair care treatments have not gone unnoticed by cosmetic product developers. The Ayurvedic lifestyle is becoming more mainstream and natural ingredients such as mango and papaya are often used to combat problems associated with problematic, dull, fading skin and hair. The natural enzymes in these fruits are also used in a wide range of beauty products to exfoliate and smooth the skin, as well as detoxify and purify the scalp.

Enzymes in fruits, as in virtually all other organisms, are natural catalysts (change or increase the rate of a reaction) that regulate internal functions such as fruit ripening and color changes in plant leaves. Most enzymes are proteins that lose their functional activity when denatured. The use of enzyme extracts from fruits is not new. The benefits of enzymes have been known and practiced in Ayurvedic and folk medicine for centuries. Mango and papaya enzymes are highly functional for cosmetic use.

Mango and papaya enzymes (the best known of which is papain) are able to exfoliate dead skin cells. Papaya contains arginine, an amino acid that smoothes the skin and promotes cell regeneration. Both mango and papaya have antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-acne and anti-dandruff properties. 

Benefits of Using Mango and Papaya Enzyme Complexes

During the manufacturing process, papaya and mango fruits are macerated and the active ingredients are extracted for use in an aqueous solution. The Pap-Ango enzyme component is suitable for use in skin and hair care formulations such as cleansers, active masks and enzyme peels. 

"From personal testing experience, 5% enzyme is more than enough to effectively exfoliate both the face and scalp. If you have sensitive skin - start with a lower dosage and increase as needed. We have tested the combination with Aristoflex AVC thickeners and xanthan gum and both gels turned out beautifully. Formulations can be made as pure aqueous formulations combining moisturizers with enzymes, preservatives and thickeners, or as emulsions containing oils and emulsifiers. When working with Pap-Ango Enzyme, be aware of temperature control and introduce the component at temperatures below 60°C.  Don't forget to check the pH at the end.  And also remember the base of the basics - enzymes love a high amount of "bumping" ingredients in the formulation!

Efficacy for Cosmetic Use

ABS Pap-Ango Enzyme was evaluated for its ability to accelerate cell renewal using a traditional skin pigmentation test protocol.

Methods and Materials

Skin cells are frequently exposed to UV radiation and other chemical and environmental factors. Timely death and renewal of cells minimizes the potential long-term harmful effects of all of these exposures. Supporting the cell renewal process, especially in more mature skin, improves the appearance of the skin and also acts as a protective barrier.

Dermal Dye Max has been used to induce skin pigmentation. The active ingredient in Dermal Dye Max is dihydroxyacetone (DHA), also known as glyceron.

The study included male and female volunteers between the ages of 20 and 45 with no skin abnormalities. Derma Dye Max was applied to four identified test sites on a portion of the forearm. The dye was allowed to develop for 24 hours before baseline measurements were taken. The fifth skin patch was identified as a baseline skin control and was not treated. Baseline DermaLab Pigmentation Index values were measured on all five sites after dye manifestation and before the first application.

Approximately 0.2 g of three types of lotions containing 5% glycolic acid, 5% ABS Pap-Ango Enzyme and base formula (base control lotion) were applied to three corresponding 2 cm x 2 cm sites on the forearm. The fourth test site was left untreated as an initial test site for staining. Measurements were taken every 24 hours until the active test site returned to baseline. 

Test Results

ABS Pap-Ango Enzyme was able to return the test site to its original pigmentation levels in three days. The percent change in pigmentation was calculated for all four staining site measurements for each respective day using the equation below.

The results show that Pap-Ango Enzyme is able to increase cellular renewal compared to an untreated control area of skin. Cellular renewal is useful for visibly improving skin tone and texture, and helps the skin act as a protective barrier against harmful chemicals and environmental stressors that can lead to premature aging.

As shown in Figure 2, ABS Pap-Ango Enzyme demonstrated the greatest percentage reduction in change from baseline compared to all other controls. ABS Pap-Ango Enzyme outperformed the positive glycolic acid control in inducing cellular renewal and was able to return the skin to untreated baseline pigmentation. ABS Pap-Ango Enzyme induced a 98.5% change in pigmentation within 3 days compared to the glycolic acid positive control which induced only a 95.2% change in pigmentation. It can be concluded that ABS Pap-Ango Enzyme, at normal concentrations, promotes cellular renewal, resulting in a healthier and brighter skin tone and helps to reverse the signs of aging.