Physiogenyl (mineral complex) 10 g

Physiogenyl is a complex mineral booster for cosmetic products.

Physiogenyl PF from the French company Solabia is an optimized combination of 4 minerals and oligoelements essential for our body: sodium, zinc, magnesium and manganese. They are combined with L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (L-PCA), the physiological molecule of the skin. L-PCA is obtained by cyclizing L-glutamic acid, an amino acid of plant origin.

Component Characteristics and Application Specifics

INCI: water, sodium PCA, magnesium PCA, zinc PCA, manganese PCA

Preservative system: Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate

Appearance: practically colorless liquid

Dosage (percentage of use in cosmetics): 0,5 - 3 %. Do not apply undiluted to the skin.  

Solubility: in water at temperatures up to 40°C. Short-term heating up to 70°C is allowed. Also soluble in alcohol, glycerin and butylene glycol. 

Usage: Dissolve in water and add to warm aqueous phase before emulsification. Stable in a pH range of 4.0 - 7.0. 

Storage: it is recommended to store in a dark, cool place, away from direct sunlight and overheating. At temperatures below 25°C there is a risk of reversible crystallization (when heated to 30°C), this does not affect the quality of the product.

Cosmetic properties of Physiogenyl and its mechanism of action

Due to their function as enzyme cofactors, minerals play many roles in the skin, catalysing a very large number of biological reactions. The four minerals that make up Physiogenyl have been specially selected and combined because of their activating properties affecting the vitality and metabolism of the skin.

• Sodium: promotes the proper functioning of skin enzymes thanks to its moisturising effect.
• Magnesium: ensures the production of energy (ATP) and participates in cell proliferation.
• Manganese: antioxidant, it also plays a role in skin regeneration.
• Zinc: involved in cell division and differentiation as well as protein synthesis.
•  L-PCA: moisturises and protects the skin, optimising the penetration of active ingredients.

Combining the properties of sodium, zinc, magnesium and manganese with those of PCA, an active penetration vector, Physiogenyl's biomineral complex provides the skin with a revitalising treatment and increases energy, metabolism and cell growth, ensuring complete skin renewal.

Efficiency Studies

Cellular Energy - Mitochondrial Dehydrogenase Activity

In vitro studies on human keratinocytes (immortalized cell line) treated with Physiogenyl PF and Physiogenyl POWDER at a concentration of 0.03% compared to untreated control. After 48 and 72 hours, quantification of cell viability (viable attached cells) by MTT colorimetric method and optical density analysis was directly proportional to mitochondrial dehydrogenase activity. Conclusion: Physiogenyl PF and Physiogenyl POWDER, tested at a concentration of 0.03%, provide prolonged and equivalent support of mitochondrial metabolic activity, ensuring good cell viability.

Cellular Metabolism - Protein Neosynset

In vitro study. Incubation of human keratinocytes with Physiogenyl (0.005%) versus positive control (EGF 10 ng/mL) and untreated control in depleted medium supplemented with C14 leucine. After 2 and 6 hours, radioactivity was determined by liquid scintillation after incorporation of radioactive isotope-labeled leucine into unsynthesized proteins.
Conclusion: Physiogenyl, tested at a concentration of 0.005%, increases protein synthesis and thus improves the structure of skin lacking vitality.

Cell Growth - Quantification of Generated Cells

In vitro study. Incubation of human keratinocytes with Physiogenyl (0.005%) versus positive control (EGF 10 ng/mL) and untreated control in depleted medium supplemented with tritiated thymidine. After 2 hours, radioactivity was determined by liquid scintillation after incorporation of radioactive isotope-labeled thymidine into the DNA of newly formed cells. Conclusion: Physiogenyl, tested at a concentration of 0.005%, stimulates cell growth and thus improves the regeneration of tired skin. 

Which cosmetics use minerals

• Facial care for tired and lifeless skin.
• Treatment for frizzy and dull hair.
• Tightening and revitalizing body care.
• Creation of remineralizing daily and SPA cosmetics.

Below is an example of a simple but effective formula for Remineralizing Skin Remineralizing Mist. The formulation adds 1% Physiogenyl in dry form, but you can replace it with a liquid form of Physiogenyl 2 or 3%, which is sold in our store.

Allows the introduction of electrolytes into cosmetic formulations

PCA salts can be used in all types of products. However, due to their electrolyte nature, certain rules must be followed when incorporating them into formulas:

Gelling agents: vegetable and biotechnological gums (xanthan, gellan, sclerotium, starch, carrageenan, cellulose, etc.) are preferred. In certain cases (depending on the type and concentration of the PCA salt), synthetic polymeric gelling agents such as carbomers and certain acrylates can be used.
Surfactants: PCA salts generally show good compatibility with surfactants. However, incompatibility with amino acid-based foaming agents has been observed.
Emulsifiers: PCA salts will have a beneficial effect on water/oil emulsions (possibly even replacing commonly used salts such as magnesium sulfate or sodium chloride). Oil/water emulsions should preferably be stabilized with a gelling agent.
Plant extracts: PCA salts can interact with some plant molecules, especially high molecular weight molecules such as tannins, proteins, mucilages and some other plant polysaccharides.

Follow these small guidelines when creating your formulas and remember to test new formulas on a small volume. And remember that electrolytes can thin water/oil type emulsions.

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.