Emulsifier Polysorbate-80 (Twin-80) 100 g

Polysorbate 80, aka Tween 80, is a frequent ingredient in cosmetics

It belongs to the non-ionogenic surfactants group and is also an emulsifier and solubiliser. Frequent use in the cosmetic industry is due to its diverse action.

Characteristics of the component and peculiarities of use

INCI: Polysorbate 80

Dosage: 1-10%, up to 50% is allowed.

Solubility: Polysorbate 80 can be dissolved in water, alcohol and oil. Not soluble in mineral oil and paraffin.

Storage: in a cool dry place, avoid direct sunlight.

Let us first understand what polysorbates are

Origin, harm and use

When you read the scary word Polysorbate - the first association with something harmful and chemical. But not everything is so scary... Polysorbates (and there are several types of them) are of plant origin. They are based on sorbitol, which is obtained from plant products, and fatty acids, which are extracted from base oils. Thus, in nature there is Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60 and Polysorbate-80. The higher the number - the more lipophilic properties are inherent in polysorbate and the lower its GLB becomes. The basis for polysorbate production is:

• coconut oil (Tween-20)
• palm oil (Tween-40 and Tween-60)
• olive oil (Tween-80).

As for the harm of this emulsifier - there is no confirmed data. Polysorbate is easily degradable in nature, does not cause skin irritation, but may cause eye irritation if ingested in concentrated form. Polysorbate is often used in the food industry under the code E433 and is authorised for use in the EU and Ukraine.

But about the useful functions of polysorbate can be written much more than about its harm. So, what properties can this cosmetic component fulfil First of all, it is an excellent solubiliser, or in other words a solvent. With the help of polysorbate dissolve complex assets, such as salicylic acid. It serves as an excellent basis for dissolving fragrances and essential oils and further introducing such a solution into water. And also with the help of polysorbate you can easily introduce fat-soluble CO2 extracts into a facial toner.

Polysorbate also helps to create the well-known hydrophilic oils, which when in contact with water turn into a gentle cleansing milk. By incorporating polysorbate into your scrub recipe, you can prevent the oil from peeling off, because it is a co-emulsifier. It will also make your oil scrub easy to wash off from your skin. And also introducing this component into your formulations will increase their viscosity and stability.

How to add polysorbate in cosmetics and recipe

Standard dosage: 1 - 50%, but some manufacturers can introduce and more in specialised products. But for the preparation of cosmetics, polysorbate is introduced no more than 10-15%. Thus, to create:

• hydrophilic oil is most often taken from 5 to 10% polysorbate-80
• shower or bath oils are used from 20 to 50% polysorbate-80
• when creating oil-based scrubs take up to 15% emulsifier.
• for dissolving essential oils, fragrances and CO2 extracts, a ratio of 1:1 is most often used.

When dissolving complex assets, such as salicylic acid, it is recommended to use a 2:1 ratio (polysorbate:acid) and additionally heat the mixture.
Polysorbates are perfectly soluble in water, esters (alcohols), oils. But they are not soluble in mineral oil and paraffin. It is not recommended to heat the emulsifier above 60 C.

As for proven recipes of cosmetics with and without polysorbate - go to youtube channel Cosmetic Kitchen BEURRE, there you will find many video tutorials on making cosmetics. Meanwhile, we share with you the recipe for BEURRE Intimate Hygiene Hydrophilic Oil:

• Grape Seed Oil 45%
• Olive oil 31%
• Hemp Oil 10%
• Polysorbate-80 10%
• Tea tree essential oil 1%
• Lavender essential oil 1%
• Vitamin E 1%
• CO2 geranium extract 0.5%
• CO2 carrot extract 0.5%.

Preparation: the recipe is given in %, but if you are making 100g of oil, then % is equal to grams. Mix all the ingredients from the list in a sterilised container and leave overnight. In the morning, pour into a bottle and happily use the natural product.

To buy or not to buy?

If you are still thinking whether you need such a universal component as polysorbate - someone else is already sending it to the basket. In BEURRE shop you can buy emulsifier both retail and wholesale from 1kg and more with delivery to any country in the world.