Trehalose 30 g

Trehalose in cosmetics for moisturising and protecting skin and hair

Trehalose is a cosmetic component found in a number of unique plants that helps them recover from severe dehydration. This natural property allows Trehalose to be used as an ingredient to naturally protect skin and hair from adverse environmental conditions. When trehalose is used in cosmetic products, it protects fibroblasts from dehydration by replacing water in tissues and helping to preserve the natural structure of skin and hair. The ability to replace water reduces the unfavourable effects of the environment, especially during temperature changes.

Component Characteristics and Usage Specifics

INCI: Trehalose

Appearance: white crystalline powder

Dosage: 1-5 %

Solubility: in water

Peculiarities of use: Trehalose powder is easily soluble in water, stable in a wide pH range from 4.0 to 10.0, as well as withstands heating (retains stability) at temperatures up to 90 C. This means that trehalose can be used as a water soluble ingredient. This means that trehalose can be introduced both with the active phase and into the hot aqueous phase before emulsification.

Certification: Ecocert, Cosmos, Halal, China (IECIC)

Storage: at room temperature, avoid direct sunlight, high temperature and humidity.

Origin of the component

Trehalose is a naturally occurring disaccharide present in a large number of plants and microorganisms. The special properties of trehalose allow these plants to survive in the harshest climatic conditions, including drought and low temperatures. The presence of trehalose is the main reason why plants in the desert flourish again after severe drought. A good example of this recovery is the plant Selaginella lepidophylla, which is able to come back to life after receiving water due to the presence of trehalose. Trehalose replaces water in tissues and it is this natural property that allows the active to be used as a protective component against unfavourable environmental influences and temperature changes.

Cosmetic properties of Trehalose

Trehalose has higher moisture retention properties than other disaccharides and maintains the moisture of the stratum corneum through its moisture retention properties. Trehalose enhances skin barrier function by promoting the formation of lamellar structure of intercellular lipids. These effects have been confirmed even in dry environments. Trehalose helps to maintain skin health by protecting the skin from drying out.

Contribution of the stratum corneum (stratum corneum) to moisture retention in the skin

The stratum corneum is the outer layer of the skin, which is about 0.02 mm thick. Healthy skin contains approximately 20-30% moisture, which protects the skin from dryness and external stressors. The water content of the skin is maintained by sebum, natural moisturising factor (NMF), keratin and intercellular lipids among the cells. And when the air is excessively dry, transepidermal water loss by the skin increases, resulting in dry skin. This is especially affecting people with compromised skin's protective layer.

Trehalose is able to influence the maintenance and retention of moisture by the skin on several levels:

1. Trehalose maintains the moisture holding capacity (WHC) of dry skin, whereas placebo had no effect. Toner with 3% Trehalose and placebo was applied to the inner surface of the forearms of 21 women with dry skin twice daily for 14 days. Water sorption-desorption test was performed on days: 0, 7 and 14. Water was applied to the area of application and the area without application. SC water content (SWC) was measured every 30 seconds immediately after wiping. The moisture holding capacity (WHC) was calculated as described below.
   
2. Moisture retention under dry air conditions. Trehalose increases the amount of water retained in keratin. A 3% trehalose solution, 3% glycerol solution or water (control) was added to keratin powder. These samples were dried under vacuum at room temperature for 16 hours. Then water was added and mixed well. The samples were stored in a desiccator at 22.4% relative humidity for 24 hours, then weighed to calculate the residual moisture compared to the control (100%). A significant difference in the effectiveness of glycerol and trehalose can be seen in the graph.
   
3. Trehalose promotes lamellar structure formation in the SC (stratum corneum) intercellular lipid model. Below you can see a polarised microscopic image of the lamellar structure. Phase A (ceramide, cholesterol sulfate and water) and phase B (stearic acid and cholesterol) were prepared, mixed together and sonicated. A 3% trehalose solution or water was added to the mixture, mixed and treated with ultrasound to create an intercellular lipid model. The plate-like structures were detected by polarised microscopy (shown as white dots in the photographs).
   
    

Odour suppression

Trehalose prevents the formation of volatile aldehydes and the splitting of fatty acids. This property of the component is used to increase the shelf life of cosmetics with oils in their composition, as well as to suppress unpleasant body odour associated with ageing and aging.

As for base oils, they are contained in almost all cosmetic products, therefore, they also contain fatty acids, which in their natural decomposition can change the smell and colour of the finished cosmetics. And trehalose prevents this decomposition, extending the shelf life of the products. In the left graph below you can see trehalose's ability to inhibit aldehyde production compared to other saccharides.

And the graph on the right shows the result of using a spray containing 2% trehalose and its effect on the formation of volatile aldehydes in ageing people. After the age of 55 the process of release and decomposition of palmitoleic acid, and subsequently the release of volatile aldehydes, sharply increases, which is accompanied by the release of an unpleasant odour. 

Main cosmetic properties

• strengthens skin barrier function and prevents transepidermal water loss
• natural energiser that retains and preserves moisture
• protects the skin from stress and dry air.
• reduces itching due to dryness
• suppresses unpleasant odours, especially relevant for age skin, deodorants and oral care products
• removes unpleasant odours from cosmetic ingredients, including vegetable oils.
   

What recipes to add trehalose to

• in face and body care products
• hair cosmetics
• in oral care products.

Trehalose is used in a wide range of cosmetic and care products such as lotions, toners, body milk, creams, gels, serums and essences, shower gels, shampoos and hair conditioners, liquid and solid soaps, toothpaste and mouthwashes. Trehalose is used in formulas from 1 to 5%, but it's up to you to decide what percentage of the ingredient to put in your product.

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.