Emulsifier VARISOFT EQ 65 50 g

Biodegradable conditioning emulsifier VARISOFT EQ 65

Varisoft EQ 65 from the manufacturer Evonic is a readily biodegradable conditioning emulsifier that improves the conditioning properties of wet and dry hair. It is suitable for vegan cosmetics and more suitable for natural cosmetics than BTMS.

What are cationic emulsifiers, how to use them correctly and why it is not recommended to use cosmetics on cationic emulsifiers for the skin read in the article from BLOG BEURRE “Cationic Emulsifiers”.

Component characteristics and description

INCI: Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol.

Main conditioning agent content: 65%

Type: cationic emulsifier

Dosage: 1 - 10 %

Use: The emulsifier melts in the aqueous phase at a temperature of about 75-80 °C. It can be used as a single emulsifier or in combination with other co-emulsifiers. The recommended pH of the finished product is 4.0 - 4.5. At pH from 5.0 the emulsifier tends to hydrolyze.

Regulatory status: the manufacturer has never performed any animal testing, nor has it ordered such testing from third parties. The product is not a nanomaterial as defined by the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, Commission Recommendation 2011/696/EC and French Regulation No. 2012-232. GMOs and GMO derivatives are not used in the production. 

Storage: in a cool dry place, out of direct sunlight.

Varisoft EQ 65 emulsifier and its use in recipes

Varisoft EQ 65 is an easily biodegradable conditioning component based on stearic acid combined with cetearyl alcohol. It enhances the conditioning properties of wet and dry hair and also acts as an emulsifier, providing a sensory profile characteristic of cationic emulsions.

Conditioners incorporating Varisoft EQ 65 have a very rich and creamy appearance, show high conditioning properties and excellent washability from hair compared to Behentrimonium Chloride. Figure 1 shows the results of combing force measurement of uncolored blonde hair pre-damaged by permanent wave. The results are based on 3 samples. The test formulations were conditioning rinses containing 1 weight % active conditioning agent based on 0.5% Ceteareth-25; 5.0% Cetyl Alcohol; 1.5% Varisoft EQ 65 resp. Varisoft® BT 85 Pellets; and water to 100.0%, pH = 4.
In the graph below you can see that conditioning with Varisoft EQ 65 in the formulation results in less combing than with Behentrimonium Chloride.

Conditioning efficiency

Varisoft EQ 65 demonstrates excellent conditioning properties that are superior to Cetrimonium Chloride and very similar to effective Behentrimonium Chloride. Half-head technical tests with 10 subjects confirmed the excellent conditioning properties of Varisoft EQ 65. The test formulations contained: 0.5% TEGINACID® C Pellets (Ceteareth-25), 5.5% cetearyl alcohol, 2.0% active cation. The pH value was adjusted to 4.5. Figure 2 shows that Varisoft EQ 65 outperformed CTAC (Cetrimonium Chloride) in most parameters.

Figure 3 shows a half head study that the conditioning properties of Varisoft EQ 65 are very similar to those of the high performance BTAC, VARISOFT® BT 85 Pellets (Behentrimonium Chloride).
 

Simple hair conditioner formula

The very simple frame formula combines Varisoft EQ 65 conditioning agent and cetearyl alcohol to create viscosity, and glycerin as a moisturizing ingredient. By keeping the pH at 4.5, you'll have a simple and effective hair conditioner.

Below you can see finished products with Varisoft EQ 65 that are sold on the European market.

Biodegradability

• Diethanolamine dialkylester dimethyl ammonium chloride (analog of Varisoft EQ 65) is known from public sources:
• Biodegradable under aerobic conditions (according to European Regulation EC 648/2004)
• Anaerobic degradation results in 90% mineralization
• In addition, the manufacturer has conducted its own biodegradation test and confirmed that Varisoft EQ 65 is readily biodegradable (survives a 10-day degradation/mineralization window > 60%).

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.