ZINC PCA (Zincidone) 10 g

Zinc PCA (trade name Zincidone) is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (L-PCA), a key skin molecule that is involved in the body's hydration and energy processes. Zincidone is a physiologically active seboregulatory active ingredient of a seboregulator specifically developed by Solabia Group researchers to address oily skin with acne-prone skin. Excellent synergy with Copper PCA.

 

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Characteristics of the component and specifics of use

INCI / EINECS: Zinc PCA

CAS №: 15454-75-8

EINECS: 15454-75-8

Appearance: fine powder of white to cream color

Concentration of active ingredient zinc: within the limits of 19,4% - 21,3%.

Dosage (percentage of use in cosmetics): 0,1 - 1 %. Do not apply undiluted to the skin. Dosages are indicated according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Solubility: in water, propylene glycol, alcohol (at 50 C). Brief heating to higher temperatures is permitted.

Usage: dissolve in water and add to the hot aqueous phase before emulsification. The active is stable at pH 4.0 to 6.0. Combination with some actives should be avoided. For more detailed instructions on how to work with the asset, please read further in the description.

Storage: It is recommended to store in a dark, cool place, away from direct sunlight and overheating. If stored in the sun, the asset may change color and lose activity.

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Cosmetic properties of Zincidone

Zinc is the second most abundant trace element in the human body after iron. Due to its role in the formation of more than 90 metalloenzymes and its activity in almost 200 biochemical reactions of metabolism, zinc is an important and essential element for cellular nutrition, detoxification and anti-aging.

Zinc is involved in the synthesis of nucleic acids, including DNA, as well as protein synthesis, cell division and the activation structure of many key molecules in the body and skin. It also plays an important role in cell differentiation and therefore has significant therapeutic activity. Zinc also prevents microbial infections due to its remarkable antiseptic properties.

To increase the efficiency and bioavailability of zinc to cells, the Solabia Group researchers combined it with L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (L-PCA), a naturally occurring physiological molecule that is also fundamental to skin biochemistry. In simple terms, L-PCA can be described as a physiological "access key" that is present in high concentrations in the stratum corneum of human skin and acts as a link between energy metabolism (Krebs cycle), protein accumulation (proline and hydroxyproline precursors) and skin hydration (NMF). L-PCA becomes a carrier for the active mineral molecule and improves its absorption and bioavailability.

Reduction of 5 α-reductase activity

A large number of scientific studies have shown that zinc reduces sebum secretion by inhibiting 5 α-reductase. Furthermore, in studies testing three products with different active ingredients (zincidone, zinc chloride and finasteride (active from Merc)), zincidone showed the greatest 5 α-reductase inhibition activity.

Who doesn't know what 5 alpha-reductase is? It is important to note that experts attribute the appearance of acne to several factors at once: genetic predisposition, the effect of excess hormones (androgens) on skin elements (hair follicles, sebaceous glands), as well as increased activity of a specific enzyme - 5 alpha-reductase. This enzyme converts testosterone into its more active metabolite - dihydrotestosterone, with a further increase in its concentration at the tissue level. In addition, under the influence of androgenic (male) hormones, the activity of the sebaceous glands increases, as does the amount of sebum they produce. Often the result of an increase in androgens in the blood is the appearance of rashes on the skin - acne. Therefore, in the fight against rashes it is important to use not only antimicrobial agents, but also components that inhibit 5 α-reductase.

Antiseborrheic Properties of Zincidone

The manufacturer tested the antiseborrheic properties of Zinc PCA and then evaluated the measurement of forehead sebum levels in two groups of volunteers (16 in each group). A set of 2 groups of 16 girls aged 19 to 25 years with oily facial skin (sebum levels were 150 µg/cm2 or greater) applied a cream containing 1% zincidone or placebo twice daily for 28 days. 

Group 1 applied the placebo cream to half of the forehead. Group 2 applied the 1% zincidone cream. Skin fat was then measured in both forehead areas in µg/cm2 in each of the 2 groups on D0 and D28 using a sebumeter. The results of the studies are shown below, graphically illustrating the comparative effects of the placebo cream and the tested cream (1% Zincidone) in terms of changes in sebum levels.

Antimicrobial Properties of Zincidone

The proliferation of undesirable microorganisms such as Propionibacterium acnes or Staphylococcus epidermidis is also a key factor in the development of problematic oily skin with acne tendency. The antimicrobial activity of Zincidone was confirmed by determining the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of the compound against various bacterial strains.

The aim of the ongoing study was to determine the concentration of Zincidone required in cosmetics to inhibit the growth of the microorganisms Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The table below shows that the MIC of Zinc PCA against Propionibacterium acnes is between 0.1% and 0.25%, but the MIC against Staphylococcus epidermidis is between 0.5% and 0.75%. These data should be considered when developing formulations for oily skin with acne.

A previous study also demonstrated the antimicrobial activity of Cincidone against other microorganisms. The study concluded that Cincidone has enhanced antimicrobial activity, allowing it to act at low doses to prevent bacterial colonization responsible for a number of skin disorders.

Zincidone is recommended to be added to these recipes

• Toiletries
• Antibacterial soaps and gels
• Cleansing gels and foams for oily, acne-prone skin
• Astringent lotions
• Cleansing lotions

Skin Care

• Oil regulating creams
• Mattifying serums and anti-shine fluids
• Facial and body cleansing masks
• tonics and lotions for oily skin, acne and spots

Hair Care

• Shampoos for oily hair
• Hair loss treatments

Characteristics of Working with PCA Active Ingredients 

Copper PCA and Zinc PCA are actives that have a number of characteristics when incorporated into formulations.

1. Maintain a pH of 4.0 to 6.0 when working with PCA. Deviations from these values can result in precipitation of the active ingredient as well as a significant change in the viscosity of the finished product.
2. Avoid combining PCA with ingredients such as vitamin C, piroctone olamine (Octopirox), acrylates, saturated plant extracts, tannins, etc. in the same formulation. 
3. The solubility of PCA salts was studied in aqueous solution and in alcoholic solution containing 20% ethanol. The results are shown in the following table.

4. Combination with thickeners: It is compatible with vegetable and biotechnological thickeners and with polyacrylates (provided that the PCA content is 0.2-0.3%). However, salts of bivalent PCA are incompatible with carbomers and some acrylates. The test was carried out with zinc PCA (zincidone) and is also valid for copper PCA. The table shows an excellent combination with the thickeners xanthan gum and GEC as well as vegetable starch.

5. Effects on O/W (oil-in-water) emulsions. When PCA is incorporated into emulsions, a decrease in viscosity may occur. To avoid this, it is recommended to follow the rules, but always test the developed formulation on a small amount of cream. The first rule is that you can include PCA in the heated aqueous phase before the emulsification process itself, thus avoiding prolonged heating of the product. Second rule - it is recommended to include thickeners in formulations (see point 3), which will further stabilize the emulsion. The combination with such emulsifiers as Planta M, Sisterna SP70C, Olivem 1000, Montanov 68, Emulpharma 35, BTMS, Amphisol K has been tested and confirmed by the manufacturer of the equipment. However, this list does not exclude the possibility of using other emulsifiers, the main thing is to test.

6. Effects on O/W (oil-in-water) emulsions. When PCA is incorporated into emulsions, a decrease in viscosity may occur. To avoid this, it is recommended to follow the rules, but always test the developed formulation on a small amount of cream. The first rule is that you can include PCA in the heated aqueous phase before the emulsification process itself, thus avoiding prolonged heating of the product. Second rule - it is recommended to include thickeners in formulations (see point 3), which will further stabilize the emulsion. The combination with such emulsifiers as Planta M, Sisterna SP70C, Olivem 1000, Montanov 68, Emulpharma 35, BTMS, Amphisol K has been tested and confirmed by the manufacturer of the equipment. However, this list does not exclude the possibility of using other emulsifiers, the main thing is to test.

7. Combination with Surfactants. In general, all PCA salts have excellent compatibility with many surfactants. An increase in viscosity due to the presence of PCA actives was observed during the study. Only one incompatibility was found among the samples tested, with the aminoxylate surfactant Proteol OAT. However, it should be remembered that the tests were carried out by the equipment manufacturer and could not cover all existing surfactants. There are even more limitations when it comes to Copper PCA. The following surfactants have been tested with Cuivridone 0.2% and 10% surfactant and do not cause problems: Cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium laureth sulfate, cocoglucoside, decyl glucoside, cocobetaine. Sodium cocoyl glutamate may cause clouding and discoloration when combined with copper PCA.

8. Interaction with plant extracts. Like most electrolytes, PCA salts can interact with certain compounds found in plant extracts, namely high molecular weight molecules such as tannins, proteins and other plant polysaccharides. Such a combination can result in color change or sludge formation, which can negatively affect the appearance of water-based cosmetics such as lotions or tonics. Conversely, in emulsions or cleansing systems, the compatibility of these components is improved by the presence of surfactants and the viscosity of the system.

9. All Solabia PCA salts are compatible with each other. 

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