Gluconolactone 100 g

Gluconolactone is a PHA acid and a universal component for moisturizing and exfoliating the skin

Gluconolactone is a component with pronounced moisturizing and keratolytic properties similar to those of AHA acids. However, unlike fruit acids, it has no irritating effect at all. Gluconolactone is indicated for sensitive and dry skin, with signs of aging. 

Characteristics of the component and features of use

INCI: Gluconolactone

CAS number: 90-80-2

Appearance: white crystalline powder

Dosage: up to 4% in daily products, and up to 15% in specialized cosmetics:

• as a moisturizer: 0.5-4%, it is recommended to maintain a slightly acidic ph of 5.5
• as exfoliating agent: 5-12%, pH from 3.8
• as a chelating agent: 2%
• as a pH regulator or buffering agent: 0.1-2%.

Solubility: in water

Specific uses: the combination of Gluconolactone with the chelator Dermofeel PA-12 creates a buffer, the pH of which does not change with the addition of L-arginine. The pH of such a buffer can be increased exclusively with NaOH solution. Gluconolactone strongly lowers the pH, so it is necessary to first prepare a solution of water + Gluconolactone, correct the pH and then add the other components. It is recommended to keep the pH of the finished cosmetics with Gluconolactone between 3.8 and 5.5.

Storage: in a cool dry place, protected from direct sunlight and moisture.

Comparison of the effectiveness of PHA-acids and AHA-acids

Gluconolactone is produced during the oxidation or fermentation of glucose. This component belongs to the class of polyhydroacids (PHAs). The action of PHA in many ways similar to the action of AHA-acids, but unlike AHA-acids molecule gluconolactone has 5 hydroxy groups, this is due to a more pronounced moisturizing effect. And due to the size of the molecules (they are much larger than the molecules of AHA-acids), glucanolactone does not irritate the skin at all. Its action is much milder. 

One study looked at the effects of these acids on the skin for 12 weeks. In the end, it was found that both types of acids had the same rejuvenating and smoothing effect. However, PHA-acids have a much greater moisturizing effect and restore the damaged protective layer of the skin, while AHAs have a better effect on the complexion and skin elasticity. At the same time, the irritating effect of AHA-acids was more pronounced. These two types of acids complement each other's action well, and also enhance the action of azelaic acid.

Main cosmetic properties of glucono-delta lactone

Gluconolactone - a component with a wide range of action, inexpensive and universal active, which can be added to literally any cosmetic product. The main useful properties include:

• Due to its pronounced keratolytic effect, gluconolactone stimulates the renewal of the upper layers of the epidermis. It actively exfoliates dead cells and makes the skin more even and smooth; 
• the component perfectly retains moisture and stimulates the production of its own hyaluronic acid, hence the pronounced moisturizing properties;
• smoothes fine lines and reduces the depth of large wrinkles.
• Strengthens the skin's defenses by normalizing the pH of the skin's acid mantle. Reduces the irritating effect of ultraviolet light and unfavorable environmental factors;
• gluconolactone is comparable to vitamins C and E in terms of antioxidant properties and protects against free radicals;
• lightens pigment spots;
• reduces inflammation associated with skin conditions;
• strengthens elastin and collagen fibers and combats the saccharification (glycation) of protein fibers. 
   

Application of gluconolactone in natural cosmetics recipes

This universal component can be enriched in any cosmetic recipe:

• create peels for the skin, including in combination with AHA-acids
• supplement moisturizing creams for ageing skin
• creams with keratolytic properties for feet and elbows
• creams for the prevention of couperosis
• anti-inflammatory cosmetics
• whitening cosmetics
• in flushable skin and hair products as a chelator.
   

Chelating properties of gluconolactone

Gluconolactone has the ability to bind iron ions. It forms chelate complexes with other heavy metals as well. This means that the component can be used as a chelator.

What chelators are and why they are used in cosmetics, read Beurre's blog “Chelating agents in cosmetics”.

The ability to bind iron gives gluconolactone also preservative and antiseptic properties, as iron deficiency blocks the reproduction of pathogenic microorganisms. Gluconolactone is one of the main components of the well-known Ecocert preservative Geogard Ultra.
 

Key aspects to be considered when formulating Glucono-delta-lactone formulations

Viscosity and stability of emulsions

pH and electrolytes affect emulsification, viscosity and emulsion stability. The higher the electrolyte content, the more difficult the emulsification process is. Raising the pH of an emulsion with high glucono-delta-lactone content requires the introduction of large amounts of electrolytes, for example in the form of sodium hydroxide solution .
 

What kind of skin is gluconolactone suitable for?

Gluconolactone does not penetrate deep into the skin due to the large size of the molecules, its effect on the skin is very delicate. Cosmetics with gluconolactone are suitable for very sensitive skin, for atopic and rosacea skin. It is appropriate to add this component in cosmetics recipes for skin with signs of aging and photoaging, pigmentation, for dry skin. The ingredient is good in cosmetics against couperose.

Gluconolactone has no contraindications, but any component should be checked for sensitivity, especially when making complex recipes with a large number of components.

Recipes for cosmetics with gluconolactone

Gluconolactone is very easy to use to make recipes, the ingredient has a wide compatibility, it is easily soluble in water, and can be in the composition of literally any cosmetic product. You can see ready-made recipes with gluconolactone on our YouTube channel “Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen”.