Peptides in cosmetics: properties and applications
What is a peptide and its structure
Peptides are synthetic or natural substances consisting of α-amino acids connected by peptide bonds. Peptides can differ from each other not only in the amount and type of these very amino acids in the composition, but also in their location in the peptide chain. Such combinations of different amino acids give almost endless options for creating cosmetic peptides with different properties.
Depending on the number of amino acid residues, peptides are divided into oligopeptides (a compound of 1 to 10 amino acids, which are called dipeptides, tripeptides, etc.) and polypeptides, which have more than ten amino acids in their composition. Peptides consisting of more than a hundred amino acids are called proteins. Usually, proteins consist of no more than 500 amino acids, but there are much larger samples.
Why peptides are more effective than amino acids and proteins
It would seem that if peptides consist of a small amount of amino acids, and proteins - from a large amount, then proteins will be more useful for the skin. Moreover, assets such as elastin, collagen hydrolyzate or keratin have a much lower price. But not everything is as simple as it seems.
The more amino acids in the composition, the larger the molecule. Having a large molecular weight, it is difficult for proteins to penetrate beyond the stratum corneum. Therefore, all proteins work only on the surface and due to their ability to form a film and with sufficient humidity of the environment, they have a moisturizing, softening and healing effect, but definitely not a rejuvenating one. That is, proteins when applied externally to the skin will not restore collagen-elastin bonds in the dermis.
Peptides and their penetration into the deep layers of the skin
The situation with peptides is completely different. Since they combine a small amount of amino acids, their molecular weight is small, which gives them the opportunity to penetrate deeper layers of the skin and affect physiological processes in the tissues. Being low-molecular actives, peptides easily "travel" in the intercellular space, acting as regulators of various functions of skin cells.
Also, the penetration of peptides is influenced by the cosmetic form of the product. By themselves, peptides consisting of amino acids are hydrophilic, that is, soluble in water. But for better penetration during the production of peptides, they are modified with hydrophobic groups. For example, a fatty acid (palmitate) or acetate (acetate) is attached to them. In this way, a hybrid molecule called a lipopeptide is obtained. This form of active release allows deep penetration into the skin through existing microcracks or a damaged barrier layer of the skin. Also, to improve the penetration of peptides, it is recommended to do peelings or create hyperhydration of the skin. And in the case of the use of peptides-mycorelaxants, it is necessary to use conductors or enhancers, in order to ensure the penetration of peptide-blockers directly into the muscle itself.
Advantages of the synthetic form of peptide release
Often, all modern fashionable peptides have a synthetic release form. But this fact is rather an advantage than a disadvantage. Synthetically synthesized peptides are 100% universal cosmetic components. When they get on the skin, they immediately begin to perform their function and affect the cells. As for the proteins we talked about earlier, they are species-specific in themselves and, for example, collagen from sea fish will not be accepted by human skin immediately. It will take time for this protein to be broken down into amino acids and then to form "correct" collagen from it.
The mechanism of action of cosmetic peptides: how it works
When the peptide enters the skin, it binds to a cell receptor that receives the peptide signal and responds with certain changes. Sometimes such a target can be a protein that enters the active phase and triggers a cascade of reactions. Based on this mechanism of action, all peptides are usually divided into different groups.
Peptide groups
- Remodulating or signaling peptides
- Peptides are stabilizers of homeostasis
- Myorelaxant peptides
- Peptides are regulators of the melanogenesis process
- Peptides, activators of antimicrobial peptide production systems
- Immunomodulatory peptides
- Peptides of neurotransmitters
- Peptides that improve microcirculation and lymphatic drainage
- Other special peptides.
Remodulating, signaling or matrikin peptides
Remodulating or signaling peptides work directly in the dermal matrix by influencing the processes of breakdown and synthesis of its components. With age, the activity of fibroblasts, which produce the intercellular matrix, decreases, and the amount of enzymes that destroy it increases. Signal peptides "start" the work of fibroblasts by applying matrikins to the skin. Matrikins signal to fibroblasts about the breakdown of matrix components, and instead of destroyed proteins, they begin to synthesize new ones. Thus, remodulating peptides balance the disproportion between synthesis and disintegration of the intercellular matrix. As a result, thanks to the peptides of this group, we get a rejuvenating effect and a significant improvement in the quality of the skin, and they are also used in cosmetics for traumatized skin: after peelings, mesotherapy, photodamaged.
Peptides stabilizers
Peptides stabilizers of homeostasis work on a different principle. They manage to improve the condition of the skin by means of general strengthening action and increasing its own protective potential. Such a seemingly general action allows you to get results at different levels, starting with the restoration of the barrier layer of the skin and ending with the dermal matrix. Peptides of this group are highly recommended for use in cosmetics for sensitive and injured skin, in products after exposure to the sun, and for general strengthening of skin tissue.
Myorelaxant peptides
Myorelaxant peptides, or in other words, botulomimetic peptides, work on the principle of blocking the signal from the nerve ending that the muscle is contracting. As a result, the signal about muscle contraction does not reach the muscle fiber, and we get a decrease in the intensity of facial expressions. Blocked muscles over time give the result of smoothing facial wrinkles. But only facial expressions! Also, for a more effective action of peptides of this group, it is recommended to combine them with remodulating peptides, as well as include enhancers in the composition. After all, the task of muscle relaxants is not just to penetrate the epidermis, but also to reach nerve endings and muscle fibers.
Peptides are regulators of the melanogenesis process
Peptides regulators of the melanogenesis process are used in cosmetics, where it is necessary to reduce or increase the process of pigment production. Some peptides from this group prevent pigment production and are used in lightening compositions. And others, on the contrary, activate the pigment in order to prepare the skin for intensive solar procedures.
Peptides, activators of antimicrobial peptide production systems
Peptides activators of the antimicrobial peptide production system (AMP) appeared on the cosmetic market not so long ago and are just beginning to gain momentum. The point is that our skin already contains antimicrobial peptides that fight against various microorganisms. In the case of any damaged stratum corneum, harmful microorganisms can penetrate deeper into the skin, and here AMPs are maximally activated. Adding the assets of this group allows you to activate the production of these antimicrobial peptides even more, thereby increasing the skin's resistance to microorganisms of various kinds.
Immunomodulatory peptides
Immunomodulatory peptides normalize the immune status of the skin by restoring the balance of cytokines, because the release of anti-inflammatory cytokines that increase the degradation of the intercellular matrix increases with age. In some way, the action of this group of peptides (e.g. Rigin) overlaps with remodulating ones, but the effect on the skin occurs in a different way. As a result, we get a significant improvement in the quality of the skin, including after photodamage, as well as in the area around the eyes. Peptides of this group are recommended to be included in all antiaging formulas, combining them with matrikin peptides and muscle relaxant peptides.
Peptides of neurotransmitters
Neurotransmitter peptides, in particular Calmosensine, are able to soothe damaged and irritated skin by dulling sensitivity. As a result, the skin stops being "irritated" in the presence of such external factors as negative thermal or mechanical impact. This peptide is recommended for use in cosmetics for sensitive skin, in after-sun products or creams to restore barrier function.
Peptides that improve microcirculation and lymphatic drainage
Peptides that improve microcirculation and lymphatic drainage allow you to remove puffiness and puffiness of the eyes. They regulate the permeability of the vascular wall and improve microcirculation in the skin.
Special peptides
Also, I would like to single out special peptides for solving other point problems. The Hilurlip peptide, which helps to increase the volume of the lips, was neglected. Widelash peptide, with the help of which you will be able to grow eyebrows and eyelashes. Procapil peptide will solve the problem of alopecia and hair loss. Haloxyl will save you from dark circles under the eyes, Idealift is used for a lifting effect and fight against "bulldog cheeks".
Peptides are one of the most powerful active ingredients capable of not only masking skin imperfections, they correct these imperfections, affect the processes occurring inside the skin cells, and they are not foreign elements of the skin. It is quite simple to use peptides in home cosmetics, they are easily introduced into creams and serums and give a visible prolonged effect.
Sources: Silke Schagen Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results, "Fundamentals of Cosmetic Chemistry", A.A. Vshivkov, "New Cosmetology", A. Margolina, E. Hernandez.
© beurre.ua
All materials are copyrighted. It is forbidden to use (copy, distribute, modify, etc.) materials of the site beurre.ua without prior consent.
