Emulsifier PLANTASENS HE20 30 g

Plantasens HE20 Natural Emulsifier - the easy way to a liquid crystal emulsion

Plantasens HE20 is a natural emulsifier of vegetable origin, it is based on long-chain C18-22 fatty acids of olive oil and is designed to create an oil-in-water emulsion, forming liquid crystalline structures. It is a lamellar emulsifier which is very easy to work with, it does not require any special equipment. The emulsifier is ECOCERT and COSMOS approved. Cream makers who profess the principles of green and vegan cosmetics can also buy Plantasense.

This emulsifier has been discontinued and will no longer be available. As a replacement you can use Emulpharma K10 emulsifier, which is very similar in composition and properties.

Characteristics of the component and peculiarities of work

INCI: Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate

HLB: 9.5±1

Dosage: 3 - 6%

Usage: add to the oil phase and heat to 60-70 C. Read more about how to work with the emulsifier below. Full review on how to work with this emulsifier read in the blog Beurre, as well as watch a video review on the channel Cosmetic Kitchen Beurre.

Storage: in a cool dry place, keep out of direct sunlight best.

Liquid crystal emulsion with Plantasens HE20

The liquid crystal lamellar emulsion in Plantasens allows the creation of creams very friendly to the skin. It is a multilayered alternation of water droplets in oil, and this structure is similar to the lipid layer of the skin. Due to this physiological nature, the cream is well absorbed, and the active ingredients are gradually assimilated by the skin, the effect of long-term moisturizing is preserved.

Emulsions on Plantasens HE20 are very pleasant tactile, they are easily absorbed, they do not create a feeling of greasiness, the skin after applying the cream on Plantasens HE20 becomes velvety to the touch.

Properties of Plantasens HE20 in cosmetics

In addition to unrivaled sensoriality, plantasens has a number of useful properties: 

• Gives the ability to create emulsions of different viscosities from a liquid spray milk to a thick cream
• Forms a liquid crystalline structure
• Easy to work with
• PEG-free, natural vegetable origin
• Compatible with a wide range of ingredients: oils, electrolytes, ethanol, UV filters
• Works in a wide pH range from 4 to 11
• Suitable for all skin types, including the care of irritated, sensitive skin.

Plantasense is compatible with oils of different polarity: from natural to synthetic. As for viscosity, it increases significantly with increasing fatty phase. Plantasense can easily emulsify even 35% of the fatty phase.

Plantasens input percentages for different fatty phases

Plantasens HE20 is able to create a stable, non-viscous emulsion at a concentration of 3% emulsifier to 10% oils. This results in a smooth, glossy emulsion. This percentage ratio of oil to emulsifier works well for creating cleansing milks, lotions, cream shampoos.

For a 15-20% fatty phase, it is optimal to take 4.5 -5% Plantasense. In this case, the texture and density of the emulsion can be varied with the help of a gel-former. 

The maximum Plantasense percentage of 6 % perfectly emulsifies 35 % of oils. This results in a very beautiful, viscous and dense cream. 

Using Plantasense in your formulas

Plantasense is a versatile emulsifier that is suitable for a range of cosmetic formulations

• Creams for the face and eye area
• Moisturizing and nourishing creams, lotions and body sprays
• Sunscreen cosmetics with chemical and physical UV filters
• Depilation creams.

How to work with Plantasens HE20 emulsifier

The method of working with Plantasens HE20 emulsifier does not require high speed homogenizers or magnetic stirrers, although usually lamellar emulsions are obtained at high stirring speeds. Unlike many lamellar emulsifiers, an ordinary mini-mixer is sufficient to create an emulsion with Plantasens. The manufacturer recommends to enhance the stability of emulsions with Plantasense with gelling agents.

There are three ways to make an emulsion with Plantasense

1. This method is recommended by the manufacturer and is called the one cup method. The emulsifier is mixed with the fatty phase of the future cream at room temperature, and in a second beaker the aqueous phase is mixed with the gelator. Then the phases are combined in one beaker. The oil phase is poured into the aqueous phase. The mixture is heated to 70-85 degrees Celsius in a water bath. It is then stirred by hand for a few minutes, then homogenized at medium speed for a few minutes. After that it is stirred by hand until it cools down completely. This is a very important stage during which the liquid crystal structure of the cream is formed. 

1. This method is well suited for oily and combination skin. We heat the fatty phase with emulsifier and the aqueous phase with gelling agent in separate cups. Then we pour the fatty phase into the aqueous phase and do the same process: first with a spoon, then with a mini-mixer or other homogenizer, then again with a spoon. 

This version of creating an emulsion on Plantasense is suitable for dry skin. We do everything the same as in the second method, but we pour the aqueous phase into the fatty phase, as when working with classic emulsifiers. The result is a straight emulsion. Compared to the first and second method, it feels more oily. But all the tactility of Plantasense is retained. 

Handmade cosmetics recipes and reviews

If you are new to cream making - making your own correct recipe is very difficult. And in this we are ready to help you. Go to youtube channel Cosmetic Kitchen Beurre, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology of making cosmetics with their own hands. And also go to the Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.