Surfactant OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE 100 g

Amino acid anionic surfactant for natural cosmetics

Olivoil Glutamate is a new generation surfactant, which is produced by patented technology and is a lipoamino acid based on fatty acids of olive oil and glutamic acid. It provides not only gentle cleansing of skin and hair, but also has a moisturising and softening effect, leaving behind a soft, silky feeling. 

Article in BLOG BEURRE: ‘How to make a natural shampoo and the right formula’.

Characteristics of the ingredient and specifics of use

INCI: Sodium olivoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, aqua

Appearance: white to yellow coloured liquid.

Origin: fatty acid amide derivative with amphoteric structure

pH of the component: 6.0 - 8.0

Type: anionic surfactant

Main substance: 30%

Dosage: 2 - 30%

• as basic surfactant 10-30%
• as a co-surfactant 2-10%
• as an emollient or co-emulsifier 2-5%

Solubility: in water

Speciality of use: mix with other surfactants and introduce into the aqueous phase under gentle agitation. Olivoil Glutamate (OG) does not require heating, however heating of the surfactant itself up to 70 °C is permitted. Combinations of OG and quats/cationic conditioners are possible, provided that the latter are pre-solubilised with amphoteric surfactants. It is recommended to maintain a pH of 5.5 - 8.0 if the amount of Olivoil Glutamate in the formula is more than 5 % and you want to obtain a transparent product. Thus, the pH can be within 4.5 - 8.0 if the amount of Olivoil Glutamate in the formula is less than 5% or you plan to obtain an opaque product. When used in emulsions, Olivoil Glutamate can be added either to the aqueous phase before heating or at the end of the emulsification process at room temperature.

Storage: at a temperature of 14 - 27 °C. If the product is stored at a different temperature, changes in appearance may occur. This does not affect the quality of the component and it should be kept at the recommended temperature before use.

Application of Olivoil Glutamate in cosmetics

This new generation of surfactants is an intelligent solution for creating sensorially enhanced rinse-off cosmetics with effective and gentle removal of impurities, as well as for enhancing the emollient properties and stability of emulsions. The ease of use and versatility of Olivoil Glutamate produces fully transparent, colourless cleansers that are ideal for face, body and hair care. Despite its ‘technical’ surfactant nature, Olivoil Glutamate is also an active ingredient for indelible cosmetics.

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Testing

In vivo: TEWL to assess skin moisturisation

When cosmetics with Olivoil Glutamate are applied, the transepidermal moisture loss of the skin (TEWL) is even lower than with normal water. TEWL values with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate are extremely high, i.e. the use of ‘harsh’ surfactants in skincare contributes to moisture evaporation and dry skin.

In vivo: Assessment of skin tolerance (tolerance)

Olivoil Glutamate has an erythema index value lower than that of physiological water, proving its safety and tolerance.

Evaluation by texture and softness questionnaire after use

As the main surfactant, Olivoil Glutamate shows better softness feel than sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium decyl glucoside, sodium lauryl glutamate, sodium cocoyl isethionate.

Foaming properties testing

Olivoil Glutamate shows better foaming performance than sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, decyl glucoside. The foam has a creamy consistency due to homogeneous small bubbles.

In which recipes it is used

• in baby detergents and cleansers 
• facial cleansers
• make-up removers
• personal care wipes
• shampoos
• shower and bath products.

Handmade cosmetics recipes, formulas and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.