How to make natural shampoo from natural surfactants with your own hands

Very often, even experienced cream makers are afraid to start creating their own shampoo and prefer to use ready-made recipes or even industrial shampoos. However, everything is not so scary: if you follow some rules, then you can make shampoo at home, and it will be soft, with abundant foam and wash your hair well, which is suitable for your type of scalp and hair.

How to choose a surfactant for shampoo

The main cleaning component, without which it is impossible to make a shampoo recipe, is, of course, a surfactant - a surface-active substance. The surfactant molecule has a hydrophobic and hydrophilic part. In water, surfactant molecules are collected in small groups in which the hydrophobic "tails" are turned inward, and the hydrophilic "heads" are turned outward, such a formation is called a micelle. So, with its hydrophobic "tails" the micelle captures water-insoluble dirt particles from the surface of the skin or hair, and indeed from any surface. And then we wash off this entire solution with dirt particles with water. But one type of surfactant is not enough to create a quality shampoo; a combination of surfactants is needed so that the shampoo has a high cleansing ability, but at the same time is soft, does not irritate the scalp, does not wash away the necessary lipids, does not dry out the hair and skin.

Types of surfactants and their properties

There are 4 types of surfactants, each of which has its own pronounced properties, and their correct combination allows you to get highly effective personal hygiene products.

1. Anionic - have a negative charge. They foam well even in hard water, they are the main washing and cleaning agent, they remove dirt best. But at the same time, this is the most aggressive type of surfactant to the skin and hair. This is the reputation that has been entrenched for anionic surfactants, the most famous of which is sodium lauryl sulfate, the harm of which has been described in all the advertisements on TV and the Internet. However, not all anionic surfactants are harsh and harmful, special attention should be paid to plant amino acid surfactants, which, along with high cleansing ability, have a caring and moisturizing effect. But more on that later...
2. Cationic - have a positive charge. They are used to create conditioners and rinses, they are not recommended to be included in recipes for products that are applied to the scalp, and if you still want a conditioning shampoo, then add cationic surfactants in a small %. Why cationic additives are harmful to the skin - read our article about cationic emulsifiers).
3. Nonionic - these surfactants do not form ions in water, that is, they have neither a negative nor a positive charge. They also form little foam. But their effect on the scalp is the most gentle. They soften the effect of the rest of the surfactant bundle, are often used as solubilizers and foam stabilizers. In simple terms, if you prepare a shampoo with only useful non-ionic surfactants, it will not foam as you want, even if you increase the dosage of these surfactants in the recipe. A combination of non-ionic and anionic surfactants is a must.
4. Amphoteric - their charge depends on pH. In an acidic environment, amphoteric surfactants can exhibit cationic properties, in an alkaline environment, anionic. Therefore, the stage at which you introduce the amphoteric surfactant is also important. These surfactants are much softer than anionic ones, they have high foaming properties, they also soften the effect of the main surfactant.

So, we have figured out the types of surfactants and their features, and we hope that now you understand that to create a shampoo, a combination of three types of surfactants is needed: anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic. It is this moment that will allow you to get a shampoo with high and cleansing properties, thick and dense foam, but which at the same time does not dry out or irritate the scalp. Many have encountered the fact that after several times of using industrial shampoo, peeling or itching began on the head - this is the result of using harsh surfactants that destroy the protective layer of the scalp, dry it out and as a result the skin begins to peel. And homemade shampoos allow you to experiment and find that very ideal combination that will suit you. But remember that the ideal combination of surfactants that will suit a long-haired blonde, her curly husband with hard hair, as well as a ten-year-old daughter with uncolored soft hair, does not exist. Each hair type needs its own shampoo, otherwise you will not get the desired result of cleanliness, silkiness and ideal combing. PS: the curly-haired husband is the luckiest here, it is often easier for men to choose a shampoo if there are no problems with the scalp itself.

Cosmetic Mathematics of Shampoo Recipe

Now let's start our cosmetic mathematics to understand the principle of formulating surfactants in shampoo recipes. The full shampoo recipe is always taken as 100% (together with water, active ingredients and surfactants). So, the amount of surfactants in shampoo should not exceed 10% - 15% of dry matter for adults, and 5 - 7% of dry matter is recommended for children's shampoos. Pay attention to the clarification "dry matter". Now remember, how many dry surfactants have you seen? Not very, yes. Most surfactants are sold in solutions for ease of use, in the description of the surfactant or its certificate you can find the % of dry matter contained in the aqueous solution. For example, Amisoft CS-22 surfactant contains 25% of the main substance, i.e. in a 100 gram bottle there will be only 25 grams of dry substance. Remember? Now let's move on. We have found out how much of the surfactant mixture should be in the shampoo. Now let's figure out how much of what type of surfactant should be in your mixture. For example, we are preparing shampoo for an adult and decide that we will introduce 10% of the surfactant mixture by dry substance, and now our 10% surfactant figuratively becomes 1 (one, i.e. 1 whole part) for more convenient further calculation. And here we do not need to reinvent the wheel, but simply remember that there is an approximately recommended ratio of surfactant types in the recipe:

• Anionic surfactant is 0.5 - 0.8 parts
• Amphoteric surfactant is 0.2 - 0.3 parts
• Nonionic surfactant is 0.1 - 0.2 parts.

Before starting to calculate the formula, you need to decide for yourself which surfactants and what type you will introduce, and then write out their ratio within the specified values ​​​​(remember, all surfactants taken together are one). Let's make an approximate calculation of shampoo for adults with a surfactant content of 10% dry matter.

So, we have chosen the following types of surfactants and their ratio. But this is not a proven recipe, this is just an example of the calculation. The types of surfactants, as well as their ratio to each other, can change depending on your preferences:

• anionic surfactant 0.5 parts
• amphoteric surfactant 0.3 parts
• nonionic surfactant 0.2 parts.

In total, we selected the ratio according to general recommendations, the sum of which when summed up is equal to one. That is, if you want to increase the amount of anionic surfactant, you should reduce the amount of some other surfactant.

We have completed another step in compiling the recipe and decided on the ratio of surfactants. Now we need to decide which surfactants we will use and calculate the % of their input according to the dry matter in our recipe. If we are preparing 500 grams of shampoo and our recipe should have 10% surfactant by dry matter, this is equal to 50 grams of surfactant by dry matter. That is, these 50 g are equal to that same unit, that is, a conditional one part. Great, let's move on.

Let's start calculating the input of a specific surfactant into our recipe:

• The anionic surfactant should make up 0.5 parts of the total surfactant composition, i.e. 50 grams of dry matter * 0.5 parts = 25 grams. As an anionic surfactant, we conditionally choose Amisoft CS-22, the solution of which contains 25% of dry matter. That is, to introduce the required 25 g of dry anionic surfactant into the recipe, we need: (25 grams * 100%) / 25% = 100. That is, to prepare 500 grams of shampoo containing 25 grams of anionic surfactant in dry matter, we need to add 100 g of Amisoft CS-22 surfactant solution, which in percentage terms of the total recipe will be equal to 20%.
• The amphoteric surfactant should make up 0.3 parts of the total surfactant composition, i.e. 50 grams of dry matter * 0.3 parts = 15 grams. We conditionally choose Coco Betaine as the amphoteric surfactant, the solution of which contains 30% of dry matter. That is, to introduce the required 15 grams of dry amphoteric surfactant into the recipe, we need: (15 grams * 100%) / 30% = 50. That is, to prepare 500 grams of shampoo containing 15 grams of amphoteric surfactant, we need to add 50 g of Coco Betaine surfactant solution, which in percentage terms of the total recipe will be equal to 10%.
• The non-ionic surfactant should make up 0.2 parts of the total surfactant composition, i.e. 50 grams of dry matter * 0.2 parts = 10 grams. As a non-ionic surfactant, we conditionally choose Decyl glucoside, the solution of which contains 50% of dry matter. That is, to add the required 10 g of dry non-ionic surfactant to the recipe, we need (10 grams * 100%) / 50% = 20. That is, to prepare 500 grams of shampoo containing 10 grams of non-ionic surfactant, we need to add 20 g of Decyl glucoside surfactant solution, which in percentage terms of the total recipe will be equal to 4%.

So the shampoo recipe will start like this: “Adult shampoo” (calculated for 500 g of the finished product)

Phase 1 - Surfactant 34% (which is equal to 10% of dry matter)

• Amisoft CS-22 surfactant - 20% (5% of dry matter) or this is equal to 100 g
• Coco betaine surfactant - 10% (3% of dry matter) or this is equal to 50 g
• Decil glucoside surfactant - 4% (2% of dry matter) or this is equal to 20 g.

Yes, we know that all this looks complicated, especially for beginners. But in fact, you need to play with the calculations literally a couple of times when you experiment with different surfactants and their ratios. And when you have your favorite combinations, you will replace one surfactant with another, calculating the dry matter content only for the new surfactant. That's right, by trial and error, replacing surfactants or changing the percentage of their introduction, you can develop your ideal formula.

As you already understood, composing a recipe for a quality shampoo begins with choosing the ratio of surfactants in the recipe, then choosing a specific surfactant of a certain type, and then determining its amount in the recipe and only then calculating the % of the surfactant solution introduction in this recipe. That is, developing a recipe is completely different from other cosmetics.

Please note that the calculation was invented solely to provide an example. The working combinations of surfactants, as well as their ideal ratios by type, must be developed personally for your type of hair and scalp.

The sequence of introducing surfactants: an important point of a quality formula

To get a good shampoo, it is important not only to compose a recipe, but also to follow the sequence of introducing the components, especially for self-thickening systems. The anionic surfactant is usually measured out first, then the non-ionic surfactant is added to it, and only at the end is the amphoteric added. After that, some water is added and the pH of the resulting solution is adjusted. If the surfactants are viscous, it is recommended to preheat them until they liquefy. Then water and active substances are added to the finished surfactant mixture. Thickeners and preservatives can be added at different stages of preparation, depending on the recommendations for each individual ingredient.

How to choose the right surfactant ratio in shampoo

As you can see, the recommendations for the surfactant ratio are not strict and you can vary them yourself. The anionic surfactant in the bundle can be either half or 0.8 parts. How much surfactant and which one you need depends on the type of hair, the condition of the scalp and even the age of the person for whom the shampoo is intended.

Shampoo for children and shampoo for sensitive scalp should be very delicate, gently cleanse the skin and not cause irritation. For such shampoos, you can even take an equal amount of anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and non-ionic surfactants can be taken 5-10%. Of the anionic surfactants, the softest and most gentle on the skin are the Japanese amino acid surfactants Amilite and Amisoft, as well as the French surfactant Proteol OAT based on oats. But the anionic Coco-sulfate, which is very popular in solid shampoos, is best left for adult formulations and less sensitive scalp. Remember, if the shampoo does not suit your scalp - you will feel itching and may see peeling, these will be the main signals that you need to replace the surfactant or revise their dosages in the recipe.

Among the amphoteric ones, you can choose Coco-betaine (Genagen) - this is a softer version of the well-known Cocamidopropyl betaine, or, for example, the almond surfactant Resassol AMG. Of the non-ionic ones, you can use Coco glucoside and Decyl glucoside.

In baby shampoo, it makes sense to bring the pH to 6-6.5, such a shampoo will not sting the eyes so much. For adults, you can stick to a neutral pH.

Shampoo for oily hair should cleanse the scalp well and remove dirt, but at the same time not dry out the skin, as this will provoke the appearance of dandruff and increased sebum secretion. Unlike baby shampoo, it should still contain predominantly anionic surfactants, but it is still worth choosing soft amino acid surfactants.

If the hair is porous, you can take a higher percentage of non-ionic surfactants, the hair will become smoother, however, if you overdo it, you can get slicked-back hair without any volume at all.

But to increase the volume and density of the foam, surfactants such as Coco Betaine or Amilite are often added to recipes. They can enhance the foaming of the entire formula even with the addition of only 1-3% of these solutions to the recipe.

How to make a shampoo recipe if you are a begginer in making cosmetics

If you are still having a hard time and are scared to figure out how to make a shampoo formula, we will share a life hack - buy ready-made premixes of different types of surfactants, which the manufacturer has balanced in composition and mixed for you. In the Beurre store, you can buy two ready-made surfactant mixtures

1. Plantapon SF is a mixture of anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants, which allows you to get a rich, stable foam with good cleansing properties. You can not add any other surfactants, or add only Lamesoft to add softening properties and increase the thickness of the finished product.
2. Plantapon PSC is a mixture of anionic and non-ionic surfactants, which requires the addition of an amphoteric surfactant. Cococ Betaine or Cocamidopropyl Betaine are perfect here, and 1-2% Lamesoft will help soften the formula and add thickness to it.
3. GlucoTain liquiFlex is a non-ionic and amphoteric surfactant that is added to anionic surfactants and simplifies the production process of cleansers. This mixture enhances foaming and thickening of formulas, and also has a conditioning effect from 2%.

You can start your journey in making shampoos with these bases, or with our shampoo recipes on the YouTube channel "Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen". In any case, do not be afraid to try and experiment and do not make large portions to begin with. And in the following articles we will tell you about equally important components for shampoos - actives, thickeners, preservatives and chelators.