Retinol or Vitamin A in cosmetics: use for face, body and hair

There are cosmetic components that can greatly affect the condition of the skin and have powerful rejuvenating, healing properties. Among such components is vitamin A or retinol, which is a micronutrient. However, this component, like the moon, has a dark side.

Vitamin A-based ingredients and their properties

Vitamin A is not used in cosmetics in its pure form, as it is extremely unstable, easily oxidizes and loses its properties. Most often, it is used in the form of retinol or retinoids, which are various derivatives of vitamin A. They are stable, their molecules are lipophilic, small and can penetrate into the deep layers of the skin, affecting the cells from the inside.

You will not see an immediate result from using cosmetics with retinol. Getting into the deep layers of the skin, retinol can affect one type of cell, which in turn will affect others. Moreover, retinol accumulates in various layers of the skin, controlling the peeling processes in the epidermis, regulates the activity of the sebaceous glands, and is also able to lighten the skin by interfering with pigmentation processes.

Forms of vitamin A for use in natural cosmetics

First, we would like to say a few words about the fact that there is a biologically active and inactive form of retinol. The active form includes trans-retinoic acid (trans-RK or tretinoin), as well as 9-cis-RK (isotretinoin), which is formed from trans-RK. These forms, getting on the skin, have an immediate and pronounced result. But often cosmetics with such forms of vitamin A are used only by professionals or in the form of medicines.

Inactive forms include retinol, retinal and retinol esters. When they get on the skin, they accumulate in the cell and then the cell itself converts it into an active form according to this scheme

This is why you do not see an immediate result after using inactive forms of vitamin A, since the cells in the skin must do some work and convert vitamin A into its active form.

There are several stable forms of retinol on the cosmetic market that are approved for non-professional and home use. The most famous of them are listed below.

1. Retinyl palmitate is a derivative of vitamin A in a fat-soluble (lipophilic) form. This form can be used for skin rejuvenation and acne treatment, as well as in hair care. However, you should not start using it with the maximum dosage. Read more about the cosmetic effects of retinyl palmitate here. And we will tell you about the safe use of vitamin A below.
2. Retinyl acetate or, in other words, a salt of acetic acid. This is a form of vitamin A that is not produced in the skin. This substance also has all the properties of retinoids.
3. Retinyl retinoate is a hybrid of retinol and retinoic acid. One of the modern forms of vitamin A, which acts on the skin more gently, for example, does not cause increased photosensitivity of the skin.
4. Retinaldehyde - this form has recently appeared on the Korean market, it is much more powerful than other derivatives of retinol. This form acts much more gently and helps prevent transepidermal moisture loss.

Cosmetic action of retinols

All retinoids stimulate the work of skin cells, forcing them to regenerate more intensively. Due to this property, retinol can perform several functions: general skin rejuvenation, acne treatment, skin lightening. Vitamin A in its cosmetic forms can perform the following functions in cosmetics:

• reduce existing wrinkles
• whiten pigment spots
• normalize sebum regulation
• reduce pores and help cleanse them of dead skin particles
• treat acne and post-acne (acne marks)
• increase collagen production
• even out skin texture
• maintain skin hydration.

Features of work

The effect of using cosmetics with retinol becomes noticeable literally 2-3 weeks after the start of the course. And if you decide to prepare preparations with vitamin A, remember the basic rules. First of all, you need to start using it with a minimum dosage, because vitamin A can cause irritation. The skin needs time to adapt to retinol, which is why only the minimum dosage for your first cream with vitamin A.

As for retinol itself, its dosage in cosmetics ranges from 0.05% to 0.1% (up to 1% in peels). For retinyl palmitate, the dosage in cosmetics varies from 0.1 to 0.5%. For retinyl acetate - from 0.5% to 5%. However, for more precise dosages of introduction, look at the packaging of your form of vitamin A and follow the instructions.

When creating cosmetics with vitamin A, you need to take into account several facts:

• vitamin A and its derivatives do not like heating above 45 C, and some of the retinol can be inactivated during the production process with prolonged contact with air
• to stabilize vitamin A, antioxidants are added to the recipe, such as vitamin E
• to introduce fat-soluble forms of vitamin A into aqueous products, solubilizers are used, such as polysorbate-80 or pentylene glycol
• when creating cosmetics with vitamin A, it is necessary to use distilled water or chelating agents (to remove traces of metals in water
• The pH of the final formula is best brought to 5.0 - 6.0 to give the product more stability
• it is best to store cosmetics with vitamin A in opaque cosmetic packaging and store away from direct sunlight.

Retinoids: compatibility with other components in cosmetics

When creating a recipe for a cream with vitamin A, remember the main rule - do not overload recipes with other components, especially actives with a similar effect. A combination of vitamin A is not recommended with:

• components that thin the stratum corneum (AHA acids)
• ingredients that work as immunomodulators (Beta-glucan)
• with collagen synthesis regulating actives (phytoestrogens).

A combination with:

• essential oils that enhance the penetration of all components of the recipe into the deep layers of the skin
• vitamin C is used carefully. It is not prohibited to combine two vitamins here, but it is necessary to study in detail what form of vitamin A and C you are using, their working pH and other technical characteristics
• with oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids. Their combination with vitamin A can reduce the instability of cosmetics.

It is good to combine vitamin A with the following components:

• First of all, with other antioxidants: vitamin E, CO2 extracts (green tea, sage, rosemary, ginkgo biloba)
• with physical filters: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which prevent the destruction of vitamin A on the skin under the influence of UV rays
• with B vitamins (d-panthenol, niacinamide).
• with moisturizing ingredients.

Vitamin A: harm, contraindications and precautions

In no case should you use cosmetics with any form of vitamin A

• during pregnancy or planning it. There are studies proving that retinoids have a negative effect on fetal development. It is necessary to stop taking any drugs with retinoids and using cosmetics with them six months before the planned pregnancy. A small amount of retinoids contained in cosmetics may not cause changes in the fetus, but they can contribute to the appearance of age spots in the expectant mother
• with chronic pancreatitis, kidney, heart and liver diseases
• with an excess of vitamin A in the body
• with sensitive and thin skin.

It is better to use cosmetics with retinol in a course. Since retinol can increase the sensitivity of the skin to solar activity, it is better to apply cosmetics containing it at night and use only in the autumn-winter period. It is worth starting with a small concentration of vitamin A. Exceeding the dosage required for your skin is fraught with a number of negative consequences:

• redness of the skin
• peeling
• allergic reactions
• hyperpigmentation.

Dry skin and peeling are considered acceptable skin reactions to retinoids at the beginning of the course. Therefore, it is necessary to use moisturizing cosmetics, and to avoid the appearance of age spots - use additional SPF protection.

We hope our article was useful and you will not forget to share it with a friend.

Sources: “New Cosmetology” by A. Margolin, E. Ernandez

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