Refined or unrefined. What is the difference and which oil to choose for a cosmetic recipe?
Base oils are a component that is used in literally any cosmetic recipe, unless, of course, you decide to completely replace them with emollients. But in what cases should you use refined oils, and in what cases unrefined ones? Let's consider all the pros and cons.
Refining is a multi-stage process of purifying oils from various impurities: organic particles of meal that remain from raw materials, some hydrophilic impurities, as well as waxes, aromatic and coloring substances, free fatty acids, mineral impurities.
As a result, you get oil from a colorless to pale yellow shade, odorless and lighter, compared to unrefined oil. Refined oil retains the same fatty acid composition as unrefined oil. Therefore, it is impossible to say that refined oil is empty and useless. However, there are fewer active substances in refined oil. But this is not always a minus...
Refined oil - stability and minimization of allergic reactions
Thanks to several stages of purification, refined oil is stored longer than unrefined oil, respectively, the shelf life of a cosmetic product on refined oil will be longer. Such oil is less susceptible to oxidation and more stable due to the fact that impurities that contribute to rapid rancidity are removed from it.
A minimum of impurities minimizes allergic reactions, which means that for sensitive, allergy-prone and baby skin, it is better to include refined oils in the recipe for cream or other cosmetics.
Refined oils are also more suitable for oily, problematic skin, since they are lighter, and comedogenic components are removed from them. The exception is active oils (tomato seed oil, cumin, tamanu, etc.), which are used in a small percentage and as correctly in the “unrefined version”, and are just indicated for problematic and oily skin.
Unrefined oil - an active component of cosmetics
Unrefined oils are more saturated, heavier, they contain more active components: phospholipids, vitamins, micro- and macroelements and other organic impurities. Unrefined oils have their own aroma and color. The aroma, by the way, is often very pleasant, for example, in coconut, cocoa, cucumber or apricot kernel oils. But avocado, laurel, tamanu oils can give your cream a delicate greenish tint, sea buckthorn and rosehip oils will color your cream in shades from yellow to orange. These are all pleasant bonuses with the skillful use of unrefined oils. But remember that such oils will transfer their aroma to your cosmetic product, so think in advance how you will emphasize this smell or, on the contrary, neutralize it.
How to stabilize unrefined oil
In the case of unrefined oils, it is especially important to monitor their expiration date and safety. They are more susceptible to oxidation than refined oils, and after their expiration date, they can do more harm than good.
If you like to use active unrefined oils in your DIY cosmetic recipes, be sure to additionally stabilize them. To stabilize unrefined oils, you need to slow down the oxidation processes in them. To do this, you need to minimize contact with oxygen and sunlight. That is, you need to store unrefined oils and cosmetics with them in a tightly sealed container and in a dark place, and some oils require storage conditions only in the refrigerator.
Active antioxidants also slow down oxidation processes. First of all, this is vitamin E up to 1%, as well as astaxanthin, gamma oryzanol and CO2 extracts rich in antioxidants (rosemary, sage, carrot and others). Many stabilize oils with antioxidants immediately after purchase, so as not to waste the product and not spoil future cosmetics with them.
Refined and unrefined oils can be combined in one mixture. For example, in massage oil or oil bar, you can combine from 50 to 70% refined oils with 50-30% unrefined oils.
Fermented and water-soluble oils: modern processing technologies
By the way, in modern cosmetology, the choice of base oils is not limited to refined or unrefined ones. There are also fermented and water-soluble oils (FWSO).
Water-soluble oil is obtained by replacing glycerin with alcohol, this process is called transesterification. In this case, all the beneficial properties of water-soluble oil remain the same as in the original raw material, but it acquires the ability to dissolve in the aqueous phase. Typically, VRM is used in water-based cosmetics or in cosmetics with surfactants, because such oils can act as superfatting and conditioning additives, and also additionally enhance foaming.
Fermented oils are another new product in the cosmetics industry. They are obtained by processing the original raw materials, in this case base oils, with special fungi and bacteria. As a result, the oils' composition changes slightly, they become lighter, and their antioxidant and moisturizing properties are enhanced. The finished product is additionally enriched with vitamins and amino acids, and due to the breakdown of larger particles as a result of fermentation, the active ingredient penetrates the skin better. Fermented oils are used as an active additive to the fatty phase of a cosmetic product, and sometimes in pure form on the skin or hair.
Today we looked at the difference between different types of oils, but they are all equally useful and are often used in various cosmetic formulas. How to learn how to make cosmetics yourself using ready-made and tested recipes - watch the youtube channel Cosmetic Kitchen BEURRE.