Sodium PCA 30 g

Sodium PCA in cosmetics for skin and hair moisturization

Sodium PCA, under the trade name Nalidone, is a complex that combines the effects of L-PCA on barrier function with the properties of sodium, known for its moisturizing and osmoregulatory action as well as its short- and long-term moisturizing effect. It offers skin and hair the perfect combination, acting on three levels, restoring the homeostasis of the stratum corneum and improving the radiance of dry and dehydrated skin.

Characterization of the component and specifics of use

INCI: Sodium PCA, water.

Appearance: liquid.

Concentration of active: 47.5 - 52.5%.

Dosage (percentage of introduction into cosmetics): 0,5 - 5 %. Do not use undiluted on the skin.

Solubility: in water, propylene glycol, alcohol.

Usage: dissolve in water or introduce into a warm emulsion at a temperature not exceeding 40C. Short-term heating up to 75 C is allowed.

Storage: it is recommended to store in a dark cool place, protect from direct sunlight and overheating. Avoid contact with iron and aluminum.

Uniqueness of Na-PCA

The sodium salt of PCA is the L-isomer of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid(PCA), an amino acid naturally present in the human stratum corneum. It is one of the major components (approximately 12-14%) of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) that have been found in human skin.

By participating in water balance, Na-PCA is involved in regulating the movement of water between different intra- and extracellular compartments. Due to its ionic charge, it traps water molecules and retains them, acting as a magnet for moisture. Combining PCA with the mineral synergistically enhances its cosmetic activity - PCA acts as a moisturizer for the epidermis, while sodium is involved in water retention in the deep layers of the skin.

Depending on the source (e.g. zinc or copper), PCA salts have important properties for the skin:

• soothe inflammation
• regulate sebum production
• stimulate cell renewal
• have a healing effect
• have pronounced antibacterial properties, etc.

Cosmetic properties of Nalidone

1. Reduces the appearance of wrinkles. The skin naturally contains sodium PCA, but its level decreases significantly with age. Na-PCA in the cosmetic helps to increase skin hydration.
2. As an osmoregulator, it restores the integrity of the epidermal barrier. Thus, a reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is achieved. This is particularly relevant for people with pathologies such as atopic dermatitis and eczema.
3. It repairs the structure of damaged hair by its ability to retain water, giving it softness and elasticity. It is also believed to improve the appearance of hair damaged by physical or chemical damage.
4. It performs the function of strengthening the protective barrier by activating the synthesis of new epidermal lipids.
5. Reduces inflammation by stimulating tissue repair mechanisms.
6. It has a high level of physiologic properties.
7. Universal for use in cosmetics for any skin type; in addition, there is no comedogenic effect.
    

Studies on the effectiveness of Sodium PCA application

Effect on skin moisturization

A group of 18 men and women applied a cream containing 1% Sodium L-PCA compared to placebo. At 2, 4 and 6 hours after application, the hydration level is measured again in each area by corneometry. A CM825 corneometer (Courage and Khazaka) is used for the measurements. The data are processed using analysis software. The study is conducted by double-blind method.

Conclusion: already 2 hours after application, Sodium L-PCA (NALIDONE) in a concentration of 1% significantly moisturizes the skin for up to 6 hours. Good skin moisturization is the first step to softer, more comfortable skin, better protected from external stresses. Hydration also helps to achieve a radiant complexion and fight skin aging. Sodium PCA can hold water at about 250 times its weight. And to enhance the moisture-holding properties of the formula, it is combined with hyaluronic acid to achieve what is known as cascade moisturization.
 

The principle of cascade moisturizing is that 3-5 moisturizing components with different molecular weight and different ability to absorb water are selected. Each of them acts at a different level of the epidermis (based on the penetration capacity), thus realizing a complex increase in the moisture content of cells.

Stimulation of epidermal lipid neosynthesis

The aim of this study is to quantify the neosynthesis of total epidermal lipids and to evaluate the class of these neosynthesized lipids in explants after incubation in Sodium L-PC-enriched medium.

Explants were prepared from an abdominoplasty specimen taken from a 32-year-old woman, stored under viable conditions in culture medium (MCF). The explants were subsequently divided into 2 groups: untreated control group and L-PCA group (each condition was performed in triplicate).

Conclusion: Sodium L-PC, tested at a concentration of 0.05%, increases total epidermal lipid synthesis. More specifically, it has been observed that Sodium L-PC promotes the neosynthesis of all epidermal lipids, in particular:

• Cholesterol sulfate, which plays an important role in corneocyte cohesion,
• cerebroside and ceramides 1 and 2, lipids that play an important role in skin barrier function and regulation of water flow.

Thus, Sodium L-PC helps to strengthen the skin's hydrophobic barrier and thus improves skin integrity as well as the ability of the stratum corneum to retain water within the skin.
 

Phylaggrin synthesis

This study involves evaluating the effect of L-PCA on the maturation of filaggrin and comparing it with the effect of gluconic acid. The test was performed on reconstructed epidermis (Skinethic) incubated for 72 hours at 37°C in an atmosphere with 5% CO2 under 3 different conditions (each condition was performed in duplicate):

• in the absence of the molecule under test (Control)
• with 0.04% L-PCA
• With 0.08% gluconic acid.

These concentrations were determined after cytotoxicity studies of the tested products on a culture of normal human keratinocytes.

Conclusion: L-PCA, tested at a concentration of 0.04%, stimulates the synthesis of filaggrin, a key marker in the

epidermal differentiation and building strong barrier function. Again, gluconic acid, even though it, like L-PCA, is a good active vector molecule, does not have this ability to enhance cell differentiation.
 

Comparative tests with gluconic acid on epidermal lipid and filaggrin synthesis show that the importance of L-PCA in the formation of active complexes is greater than simply improving assimilation. L-PCA, a perfectly biocompatible physiologic molecule that is a biomarker of cell differentiation, also has intrinsic properties not found in other vectors. One of the little secrets on how to maximize the benefits is the recommendation to apply products with NUV components to slightly damp skin.

What products can be used in:

• ultra-moisturizing day and night creams
• serums to quickly restore the hydrobalance
• express masks for dry and dehydrated skin
• after-sun cosmetics for the body
• creams and milk for hand and foot care
• moisturizers for dry and damaged hair (by length)
• indelible creams/balms for hair ends
• sprays/lotions for moisturizing the scalp.

Handmade cosmetics recipes (formulas) and reviews

It is very difficult to create your own correct recipes if you are new to cream maker. And we are ready to help you with this. Go to the YouTube channel Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology for making cosmetics with our own hands. And also you can check Blog from Beurre, where we share useful information about creating the right natural cosmetics.