COPPER PCA (Cuivridone) 5 g

Copper PCA - a unique trace element for skin and hair

Copper PCA (trade name Cuivridone) is a salt of copper and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (L-PCA). L-PCA is obtained by cyclisation of plant-derived L-glutamic acid. This active ingredient performs a number of different actions: it has a long-lasting moisturising effect, heals the skin, regulates the production of sebum, thus it is actively used for oily skin and hair, and shrinks pores.

Blog Beurre: article "Minerals for skin and hair: components of youth and health". We read a comparative characteristic of various minerals and oligoelements, as well as a characteristic of ready-made mineral complexes for skin and hair.

Characteristics of the component and features of use

INCI: Copper PCA

Appearance: fine powder of blue-green colour

Concentration of the active ingredient copper: within 18.1% - 19.3%

Dosage (percentage of introduction into cosmetics): 0,05 - 1 %.

Do not use undiluted on the skin.

Dosages are given according to the manufacturer's specifications. Solubility: in water at temperature up to 40 C. Short-term heating to higher temperatures is permitted.

Usage: dissolve in water and introduce into the hot aqueous phase before emulsification. The active is stable at pH 4.0 - 6.0. Combination with certain actives should be avoided. Do not use metal or aluminium containers for storage of the Copper PCA asset itself. For more detailed instructions on how to work with the asset read further in the description.

Storage: it is recommended to store in a dark, cool place, protected from direct sunlight and overheating. If stored in the sun, the active may change colour and lose its activity.

Cosmetic properties of Copper

Copper is an essential trace element of the system and is often associated with proteins and amino acids. It is involved in numerous biological reactions: activation of copper-dependent enzymes such as tyrosinase, synthesis of melanin or SOD, endogenous defence against free radicals.

Copper has astringent properties and antimicrobial action. In dermatocosmetology, it is often combined with Zinc PCA or simply zinc to develop formulations for oily and problem skin care.

In addition, copper is involved in the synthesis of hair keratin, accelerating hair growth.

Copper PCA is a combination of copper and L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (L-PCA). This molecule is naturally present in the skin and acts as a linking agent between energy metabolism (Krebs cycle), protein accumulation (proline and hydroxyproline precursor) and skin hydration (NMF natural moisturising factor). L-PCA improves the absorption and fixation of mineral and organic ions in the form of pyrrolidone carboxylates.

Efficacy in natural cosmetics

Seboregulatory action: application for oily skin and hair

In vivo testing was performed on 10 volunteers after 15 days of daily application of a gel containing 0.5% Cuivridone to half of the forehead versus placebo. The resultant reduction in sebum was 38 µg/cm2 less than normal skin sebum. Consequently, Cuivridone (Copper PCA) has strong sebum-regulating properties, reduces sebum production and shrinks pores. These properties are useful in the care of oily and problematic skin, as well as in the presence of oily hair.

Antimicrobial action in cosmetics

Copper PCA has antimicrobial and antibacterial properties, which has been confirmed by determining the Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC). The preparation containing 0.5% Copper PCA showed activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli and Candida albicans. Copper PCA also has an antiseborrhoeic effect.

Healing properties

As mentioned earlier in the component description, copper is directly related to proteins and amino acids. It has a direct effect on the formation of collagen and elastin in the skin, so the use of copper containing cosmetics accelerates the process of skin regeneration, healing of wounds and microtraumas. This property is especially useful after cosmetic procedures.

Cuivridone is recommended to add to such recipes

• creams for oily and problem skin
• anti-acne products
• hair products (strengthening)
• sunscreen products
• cosmetics for intimate
• hygiene antiseborrhoeic products.

Features of working with PCA

1.Copper PCA and Zinc PCA actives Copper PCA and Zinc PCA are active ingredients that have a number of peculiarities when incorporating them into formulations. 

2.Observe a pH level of 4.0 to 6.0 when working with PCA. Deviations from these values may result in the precipitation of the active as well as a significant change in the viscosity of the finished product. 

3. Avoid combining PCA and ingredients such as vitamin C, piroctone olamine (Octopirox), acrylates, saturated plant extracts, tannins, etc. in the same formula. The solubility of PCA salts was studied in aqueous solution and in alcoholic solution containing 20% ethanol. 

4.The results are shown in the following table. Combination with thickeners: allowed to be combined with vegetable and biotechnological thickeners as well as with polyacrylates (provided PCA content of 0.2 - 0.3%). However, salts of divalent PCA are incompatible with carbomers and some acrylates. The test was carried out with the asset content of Zinc PCA (Zincidone) and extends to Copper PCA as well. The table shows an excellent combination with the thickeners Xanthan gum and GEC, as well as vegetable starch. 

5. Effects on O/W (oil-in-water) emulsions. When PCA is incorporated into emulsions, a decrease in viscosity may occur. To avoid this, it is advisable to follow the rules, but always test the developed formulation on a small portion of cream. The first rule is that you can include PCA in the heated aqueous phase before the emulsification process itself, avoiding prolonged heating of the asset. Second rule - it is recommended to include thickeners in formulations (see point 3, which will further stabilise the emulsion. The combination with such emulsifiers as Planta M, Sisterna SP70C, Olivem 1000, Montanov 68, Emulpharma 35, BTMS, Amphisol K has been tested and confirmed by the asset manufacturer. However, this list does not exclude the possibility of using the asset with other emulsifiers, the main thing is to test. 

6.Application in W/O emulsion (water-in-oil). 
In this case, PCA salts can be more easily incorporated, as electrolytes such as NaCl salt or magnesium sulphate are often included in recipes to create a stable reverse emulsion. Consequently, PCA salts can substitute for standard electrolytes. However, it is recommended to test on a case-by-case basis. 

7.Combination with surfactants. In general, all PCA salts are excellent compatible with many surfactants. During the study, an increase in viscosity due to the presence of PCA actives was observed. Only one incompatibility was found among the samples tested, and that was with the aminoxylate surfactant Proteol OAT. But remember, the testing was done by the asset manufacturer and could not cover all existing surfactants. Regarding Copper PCA specifically, there are more limitations. The following surfactants have been tested with Cuivridone 0.2% and 10% surfactant and do not cause any problems: Cocamidopropyl betaine, Sodium laureth sulfate, Cocoglucoside, Decylglucoside, Cocobetaine. Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate may cause clouding and discolouration when combined with Copper PCA. 

8.Combination with plant extracts. Like most electrolytes, PCA salts can interact with certain compounds found in plant extracts, namely molecules with significant molecular weight such as tannins, proteins other plant polysaccharides. Such a combination may lead to colour change or sludge formation, which negatively affects the appearance of water-based cosmetics such as lotions or tonics. Conversely, in the case of emulsions or detergent systems, the compatibility of these components is improved by the presence of surfactants and the viscosity of the system. 

9. All Solabia PCA salts are compatible with each other.