The concept of synergy is how to enhance the effect of cosmetics by combining components

Sometimes, when creating a cosmetic formula, the combination of components is much more important than the percentage of their introduction individually. Customers are usually interested in the active ingredient content of a component and its dosage percentage. This is undoubtedly interesting and valuable information, but it often does not take into account the bigger picture: the synergistic effect of the ingredients. That's why today we're going to explain what synergy is and how to use it to enhance the effect of a cosmetic product.

What is the synergy effect

Synergy occurs when the combined effectiveness of two or more components exceeds the sum of their individual effects. For a better understanding, let's look at an example. A combination of 1.5% Aquaxyl active ingredient and 3% glycerin shows the same moisturizing effectiveness as a composition with 5% Aquaxyl. This shows us that it is not always necessary to use the components in the maximum dosage, but to take into account their interaction with other components of the formulation. A single active ingredient may play a major role in a formulation, but the true effectiveness of a product lies in the skillful combination of different ingredients. In addition, in some cases, high concentrations of an active ingredient can even be harmful and cause unwanted skin reactions if they are not properly formulated or balanced. That's why we combine the ingredients wisely to enhance their effect, creating a more powerful product.

The most popular combinations with a synergistic effect

Many skin and hair care ingredients can be combined to produce a synergistic effect, but it's important to know which ones work best. So let's take a look at the most popular combinations with high efficiency.

• AHA and BHA acids. You may have noticed that exfoliating or problem skin products usually contain several different alpha hydroxy acids. That's because they work much better in combination than individually. You can use a ready-made blend of AHAs as an AHA, and salicylic acid is usually used as a BHA.
• Peptides. A class of components that in most cases mutually reinforce each other's action. For example, the combination of Argireline, Leuphasyl, and Syn-Ake peptides smoothes wrinkles more effectively than one would expect based on a study of their effects separately. Also, peptides work much more strongly if several peptides from different groups are added to one formula. We talked about this in more detail in the article “Peptides in Cosmetics”.
• Antioxidants. The most striking example of synergy in cosmetic ingredients is antioxidants. The fact is that when an antioxidant scavenges a free radical, it is transformed and often becomes a free radical itself. This free radical is then captured by the next antioxidant, and then the next and the next. And so formulas with many antioxidant ingredients are more effective. In general, it can be said that antioxidant activity increases with the increase in the content of antioxidant components in the product.
• Vitamins. The most famous effective combination of Vitamin C and Vitamin E, which effectively brightens the skin, fights pigmentation and improves collagen production. Ferulic acid is often added to this “cocktail”.
• Niacinamide and salicylic acid: a great combination for oily and problematic skin, reduces sebum production, tightens pores, and reduces inflammation.
• Retinol and peptides: a powerful anti-aging cocktail that helps reduce wrinkles, produce collagen, and improve skin texture. But do not forget about the main rule of using retinol: start with a small dosage and gradually increase the retinol content.

Antagonistic components

Combined cosmetic ingredients, in addition to enhancing, can cancel each other's effects. Such components are called antagonists, and they reduce each other's activity, and in some cases even cancel it completely (mutual inactivation or complete neutralization of the effect). At the same time, the substances themselves do not necessarily change their structure, forming some new chemical compounds, but rather their effect on the skin. 

For example, AHA acids easily neutralize peptides, so you shouldn't combine them so as not to lose the effectiveness of an expensive asset. 

Retinol and its derivatives completely inhibit the action of probiotics, so it is advisable to choose either retinol or probiotics as an asset.

It is also interesting that the activity of physical sunscreen filters, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, is inhibited by the action of natural oils, while mineral oils, on the contrary, increase their effectiveness. That is why you will most often find silicones, mineral oils, or emollients in sunscreens. 

Cascade moisturizing

When we talk about the combination and synergy of ingredients, we most often mean the interaction of two components, but cosmetics often contain dozens of active ingredients. And in such cases, their interaction has a more complex mechanism for enhancing the effect. Let's analyze this interaction using the example of cascade moisturizing.

Cascade hydration is the result of the action of active ingredients that provides comprehensive hydration to all layers of the skin, based on the size of the molecules of the ingredients and their penetration into the skin. This approach provides short-term and long-term moisturizing.

Let's take a look at the stages of the cascade moisturizing mechanism and the ingredients needed to ensure the effect of each stage.

1. Protection against dehydration. In order for moisturizers to work properly, they must contain substances that lock in moisture in the surface layers of the skin, preventing excessive moisture loss (dehydration). This is very important, because, firstly, excessive moisture evaporation can offset the effect of moisturizer use, and secondly, in some cases (for example, in a room with dry air), the use of moisturizers can increase skin dehydration. Therefore, it is important to enrich the product with components that will provide an occlusive effect. These are substances that have a large molecular weight, do not penetrate the stratum corneum, but create a so-called “occlusive film” on it. Another positive effect of occlusion is that the water content in the epidermis opens the scales of the stratum corneum, which allows active ingredients to penetrate the epidermis better. Such occlusive components can include collagen hydrolyzate, various oils, and emollients.
2. Moisturize the surface layer. The next step is to pay attention to the stratum corneum. It contains the hydrolipid mantle, which is an important part of the skin's defense mechanism. Restoring the hydrolipidic mantle with moisturizing assets increases the protective properties of the skin, as well as gives us the tactile and visual effect of moisturized skin. Active substances such as high and medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid, squalane, urea, and glycerin work well here. You can choose a single active for this area or combine several.
3. Deep layer moisturizing. To moisturize the deeper layers of the skin, you need to choose components whose molecules are small enough to overcome surface protective barriers. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is perfect for this function. It is characterized by a smaller molecular size, due to which it perfectly penetrates the epidermis and saturates the extracellular matrix. Also, some AHA acids, such as lactic and glycolic acids, as well as the amino acid taurine, or the Japanese NUF Prodew 600, are used to moisturize the deep layer. These acids are able to trigger the internal moisturizing system. If you use all three types of the above mentioned substances in one product, you will get a cascading effect of skin moisturizing, help improve the appearance and tone of the skin. 

We know that you would like to have ready-made lists of synergists and antagonists, but it is probably impossible to create such a complete list. After all, all this is determined by practice, testing formulas and studying official research. But we hope that this article has shed some light on the concept of synergy and its benefits. And now you can safely combine the components to create even more powerful and effective products.