Precautions when working with AHA/BHA acids
Before you start preparing handmade cosmetics that contain cosmetic acids, you should learn the basic rules for working with them. It is also important to observe certain safety precautions, so as not to harm your own skin.
AHA acids, how to work with them and apply them to the skin
Fruit alpha hydroxy acids are most commonly derived from fruits and are used to smooth fine lines, improve skin texture and tone, cleanse pores and improve exfoliation of keratinized particles. Also, with the help of some types of AHA acids, the pH of natural cosmetics can be adjusted. For this kind of measurements, special pH meters for cosmetics are used.
AHA acids include:
- glycolic acid
- lactic acid
- malic acid
- tartaric acid
- citric acid
- almond acid.
Cosmetics containing AHA acids, can be as care for home use, and professional for use by cosmetologists, and therapeutic. It is widely popular all over the world, but failure to follow precautions, personal intolerance and allergies, too sensitive skin can cause the following negative effects on the skin: burning, rashes, swelling, pigmentation changes, peeling, itching and burns.
“American scientists conducted a study on skin sensitivity to UV radiation after the use of cosmetics containing AHA acids. As a result, after 4 weeks of AHA use, skin redness upon receiving UV radiation increased by 18% and cellular damage almost doubled. Also, studies have confirmed that within a week after stopping the use of cosmetics with AHAs, the skin returned to normal and did not show similar sensitivity to UV radiation.”
To avoid such a result before using cosmetics with fruit acids in the composition of the following rules:
- conduct a sensitivity test on the bend of the elbow. If there was no negative reaction - conduct a sensitivity test on a small area of the skin of the face. Remember, we are all unique and if a toner with AHA acids suited your friend, it does not mean that you will not have a negative skin reaction;
- when making cosmetics with AHA acids, take into account the fact that they strongly lower the pH of the finished product. Be sure to adjust it at the final stage of preparation of cosmetics with acids;
- pH of the finished product with AHA acids should be equal to 3.5 or more;
- do not combine AHA acids and vitamin C (and its derivative forms) in one cosmetic;
- do not combine essential oils and fruit acids in the same recipe;
- AHA acids disrupt the skin's protective layer, thereby making it more sensitive to the sun. Therefore, be sure to use sunscreen while using cosmetics with AHA acids. If acid products are used in the summer, then they should be used in the evening and still apply cosmetics with sun protection during the day;
- do not use cosmetics with acids for children and babies.
BHA acids, how to work with them and apply them to the skin
Beta hydroxy acid, or more simply BHA, is often used in cosmetics for deep cleansing skin exfoliation either alone or paired with AHA acids.
BHA acids include:
- salicylic acid or related substances salicylate, sodium salicylate
- plant salicylic acid or in other words willow bark extract.
- beta hydroxybutanoic acid (beta hydroxybutanoic acid)
- tropic acid
- trethocanic acid.
The most common BHA is synthetically synthesized salicylic acid, which is widely used in cosmetics for problem skin and as an ingredient in peels. Recently on the cosmetic industry market, synthetic salicylic acid is increasingly being replaced by its milder, but no less effective analog of black Willow bark extracts.
The effectiveness of using BHA acids in cosmetics has been proven for decades, but before using products with acids you should adhere to the following rules:
- conduct a sensitivity test on the bend of the elbow. If there was no negative reaction - conduct a sensitivity test on a small area of facial skin. Remember, we are all unique and, if the washing gel with salicylic acid suited your friend, it does not mean that you will not have a negative skin reaction;
- when making cosmetics with BHA acids, take into account the fact that they strongly lower the pH of the finished product. Be sure to adjust it at the final stage of preparation of cosmetics with acids;
- the pH of the finished product with BHA acids should be 3.5 or more;
- carefully combine essential oils and BHA acids in one recipe, be sure to conduct a sensitivity test;
- BHA acids cause sensitivity of the skin to the sun, therefore, during the use of cosmetics with BHA acids it is obligatory to use sunscreen cosmetics. If acid products are used in the summer, it means that they should be used in the evening and during the day still apply cosmetics with sun protection;
- do not use cosmetics with acids for children and infants.
In this article we have collected the shortest and most useful information that will remind you of the seriousness of using cosmetics with acids, as well as the importance of correcting the pH of the finished product that contains acids.
Remember, low acidity of everyday cosmetics can destroy the stratum corneum of the skin, resulting in dryness, irritation and flaking. Don't skimp on your own beauty, allow yourself to buy a cosmetic pH meter and monitor all stages of handmade cosmetics. Let's strive for professionalism even with homemade cosmetics!
Cosmetics Recipes
If you are new to cream making - it is very difficult to make the right recipe. And in this we are ready to help you. Go to youtube channel Cosmetic Kitchen Beurre, where we have already developed many recipes for handmade cosmetics and share the technology of making cosmetics with your own hands.
