What is NMF (natural moisturizing factor) and its benefits for skin and hair

Our body is very smart and has many self-regulation processes. Even skin hydration is a natural mechanism that does not require anything from the outside. Of course, if everything in the body works stably. To maintain the moisture level in the skin, there is a NUF or natural moisturizing factor. It is a complex of molecules that prevent fluid loss in the skin and are concentrated in the stratum corneum. NUF is a product of the metabolism of keratinocytes, that is, skin cells. At the last stage of development, keratinocytes produce filaggrin, as a result of its breakdown, NUF amino acids are formed.

Composition of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF)

The NMF contains amino acids, minerals, lactic acid salts, urea, as well as polysaccharides, peptides, glycerin and other substances. Here is the approximate composition of skin NMF:

• Amino acids - 42%
• Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid - 12%
• Lactic acid salts (sodium lactate) - 12%
• Urea - 7%
• Sodium - 5%
• Other components - 22%.

The composition of hair NMF is very similar to the composition of skin NMF, but the main difference lies in its amino acid composition (that is, in those 42%), so below we will talk about different types of NMF for skin and hair.

Why is NMF so important for skin and hair

Natural moisturizing factor is able to retain moisture in the stratum corneum. Due to good hydration, the stratum corneum becomes smoother and, as it were, slightly transparent, as a result, wrinkles are reduced and the face acquires a radiant color.

In addition, NMF is an environment for the formation of enzymes responsible for the timely exfoliation of dead skin particles.

The skin's production of NMF may decrease for various reasons:

• environmental factors: dry or too cold air, wind
• all skin processes slow down with age, including the production of NMF
• aggressive washing washes away NMF elements, in particular minerals
• impaired epidermal barrier and skin pH.

Any skin type suffers without normal NMF production. Fine wrinkles are more noticeable on dry skin, peeling, inflammation, and redness occur. Oily skin responds to the lack of hydration with increased sebum secretion and peeling.

What are the differences between NMF of different manufacturers

NMF can be replenished from the outside, because the cosmetic industry has long been making components that imitate NMF, and they are included in the compositions of serums, creams, micellar water, or cleansers. However, the composition of the skin's natural NMF is so complex that it has not even been fully studied yet. In most cases, the active component of the NMF contains only some substances of the natural Natural Moisturizing Factor, and what's more, the composition of the NMF from different manufacturers can vary greatly, including in price. Look for an explanation of this difference in the composition. Yes, pyrrolidonic acid, usually in the form of sodium salt L-pyrrolidone carboxylate, urea, sodium lactate and lactic acid are in the NMF of any manufacturer. But the composition of amino acids can vary greatly. Namely, the composition, percentage of amino acids and their concentration are very important when choosing an NMF active. Thus, in cheaper versions of NMF, there is most often no arginine, but it is this amino acid that is responsible for better absorption of the same PCA (sodium salt L-pyrrolidone carboxylate) and other acids in the NMF. Or there may be a large number of different acids that actually “work” great, but can cause irritation on sensitive skin. Therefore, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the different types of natural moisturizing factor, which you can buy in the BEURRE store in Ukraine:

• NMF (made in Italy, Kalichem): INCI: Aqua, Urea, Glucose, Sodium PCA, Sorbitol, Fructose, Hydrolyzed, Wheat Protein, Sodium Glutamate, Glycine, Lysine, Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide
• Prodew 500 (made in Japan, Ajinomoto): Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Water.
• Prodew 600 (made in Japan, Ajinomoto): Betaine, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Lysine HCl, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Water.

Which NMF to choose for your formula

Italian NMF is twice cheaper than Japanese NMF, and all because of the differences in the composition. But this does not mean that the component is bad or does not work on the skin or hair. Based on the feedback that we collected from our customers, this NMF was not suitable for sensitive skin. But it is still often used in cosmetics for the face, body and hair: it moisturizes well and fully meets all the declared properties.

Prodew 500 is an active ingredient that was developed specifically for hair (it can also be used for skin, it shows excellent results). This type of NMF consists of almost 50% amino acid mixture, and it has already been proven that amino acids supplied to hair from the outside have a beneficial effect on them: they moisturize, improve elasticity, add shine, strengthen the hair structure, and protect against damage. Leave-in hair sprays and masks are ideal for introducing Prodew 500, because the longer the contact of the active ingredient with hair, the better the result.

Prodew 600 is one of the most expensive NMFs on the cosmetic market. And all because of the composition. We have already mentioned that not all manufacturers add arginine to this active ingredient. So, Prodew 600 contains arginine (as well as Prodew 500). Prodew 600 has the most saturated and balanced amino acid formula, and the test results show that adding 0.5-2% Prodew 600 significantly improves skin hydration and the result is visible after two weeks.

Moreover, the Japanese manufacturer Ajinomoto studied the composition of skin and hair NMF, as well as the ratio of different types of amino acids, and repeated this ratio of components as close as possible to the composition of natural skin and hair NMF. Therefore, Prodew 500 (for hair) and Prodew 600 (for skin) work more effectively due to a more concentrated composition of components, as well as due to maximum identity with natural NMF.

Attention: warning

Any NMF contains PCA (sodium salt of L-pyrrolidone carboxylate). This substance is capable of thinning emulsions. Therefore, we recommend testing your emulsifiers when making recipes with NMF, it may be necessary to use them in a higher percentage or add thickeners. In addition, the components of NMF are unstable in an alkaline environment, do not forget to take this nuance into account. But the easiest way to create an effective recipe with NMF without any problems is to use it in the formulas of tonics, serums and other water-based products. And you can also find proven and stable formulas with NMF on our YouTube channel “Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen”.