Problems of dry skin: prerequisites for their occurrence and solutions

Dry skin problems are quite common: a feeling of tightness, roughness, microcracks, increased skin irritability and others. That is why the need for moisturising products is always high. It would seem that there is nothing easier than to apply a moisturiser and the problem is solved! But in order to properly select or develop a product, the cause of dryness must first be understood.

Prerequisites for the problem of dry skin

First, let's define what we mean when we talk about dry skin. It turns out that there are difficulties at this stage. Dry skin is often complained about by those who have a lack of sebum. At the same time, it is not uncommon to find people who, on the contrary, have increased sebum activity and visibly oily skin, but who also show signs of dryness (sluggish skin with reduced turgor). Obviously, the examples given of ‘dry skin’ do have a different biological basis and therefore have different terms to describe the problem: dehydration and dryness.

Dehydrated skin has poor turgor, looks saggy, and has more pronounced deep wrinkles. Dry skin is defined as skin with symptoms of dryness, flaking, roughness, fine surface wrinkles and a tendency to irritation. The main diagnostic indicators of dry skin are a decrease in the hydration of the stratum corneum and an increase in the transepidermal evaporation index.

What happens to the stratum corneum and why does it stop holding water? The answer lies in the impaired function of the skin's sebum. Skin sebum is a natural emollient that smoothes the horny scales, reducing the area of contact between the intercellular spaces and the air, thus reducing the surface from which evaporation occurs. Sebum creates an additional water-repellent layer on the skin surface that prevents water evaporation, releases glycerol that binds water from the atmosphere and retains it in the stratum corneum and its surface.

If the integrity is compromised or the composition of sebum changes, the water level in the stratum corneum decreases dramatically and then the moisture balance will be disrupted in the deeper layers.

The need for cosmetics with protective and revitalising effects

Based on the information above, cosmetics with protective and regenerating effects are needed to meet the needs of people with dry skin. Water in the skin continuously rises from the depths to the surface and then evaporates. Therefore, if its evaporation is slowed down by covering the skin with something gas-tight, the water content of the stratum corneum will increase quite quickly. This method of moisturising is called occlusive moisturising. The natural occlusive film is sebum, but it is not completely impermeable. Oxygen and carbon dioxide pass freely through the sebum. Evaporation of water is inhibited by the smoothing of the horny scales and also by the glycerin in the sebum.

Therefore, by mimicking the properties of sebum, the skin's natural moisturiser, sebum replacers have the potential for long-lasting hydration and protection, making them attractive to those struggling with dry skin conditions. Such products aim to restore the skin's lipid barrier, enhance moisture retention and promote skin repair and regeneration.

Combining natural lipids to develop formulas with high levels of natural sebum replacement

When developing a sebum substitute, it is important to consider natural lipids that are compatible with the skin and can effectively restore its lipid barrier. Therefore, we first need to familiarise ourselves with the constituents of human sebum.

Composition of sebum

Sebum is a complex mixture of lipids including triglycerides, free fatty acids, wax esters, squalene and cholesterol. Triglycerides and fatty acids combined make up the predominant proportion (57.5%), followed by wax esters (26%) and squalene (12%). The least abundant lipid in sebum is cholesterol, which, together with its esters, accounts for 4.5% of the total lipids. The most characteristic products of sebum secretion are squalene and wax esters. They are unique to sebum and are not found anywhere else in the body, nor among the surface lipids of the epidermis. Moreover, they are responsible for the main components that provide skin protection.

What to replace sebum in the formula

A cosmetic product designed according to the principle of the composition of sebum will be able to restore the balance of the skin and slow down the evaporation of water. So what components to choose to better reproduce sebum? Let's get to the bottom of it.

The largest part is made up of triglycerides with fatty acids. As a source of fatty acids, we suggest choosing borago oil. It is derived from the seeds of borage, known for its rich fatty acid composition: linolenic (omega 6) - 35-40%, gamma-linolenic (omega 6) - 25-40%, oleic - about 18%, alpha-linolenic (omega 3) ) - 3%. Another quality source of fatty acids is chia oil. It contains polyunsaturated fatty omega-3 (60%) and omega-6 acids (20%): linolenic, linoleic, palmitic, oleic, stearic. This is the optimal ratio for assimilation by our body. You can also use avocado oil, which contains such fatty acid composition: oleic - 55,0 - 75,0 %, linoleic - 10,0 - 25,0 %, palmitic - 2,0 - 25,0 %, palmitoleic - 10,0 %, linolenic - 0,5 - 3,0 %. In addition, avocado oil additionally has a regenerating effect.

As basic triglycerides it is better to choose Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, which is an emollient from coconut oil, close to natural human triglycerides. For a better renewal and occlusion effect, we suggest combining it with shea butter. As shea butter is made up of 80% triglycerides and is renowned for its regenerating properties.

Let's move on to wax esters. Among the vegetable raw materials, the best source of wax esters is jojoba oil. It is a liquid wax obtained from the seeds of the plant, very similar to sebum, which makes it an excellent emollient and moisturiser. Plus, jojoba oil is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants that help nourish and protect the skin while maintaining optimal hydration levels.

The easiest to find a substitute for the sebum component squalene. For this purpose, its hydrogenated form, squalane, is used. Squalane is lightweight, non-comedogenic, quickly absorbed by the skin. It helps to restore lipids in the skin, improves skin elasticity and protects the skin from moisture loss.

Ratio of components

With the components of the substitutes are sorted out, it remains to find the optimal ratio. To do this, it is important to focus on the ratio of components in the sebum itself. Let's say we create a cream, where there will be 20% of the fat phase, then the approximate composition of the fat phase can look like this:

• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - 8%
• Shea Butter - 4%
• Jojoba Oil - 5%
• Squalane - 3%.

Of course, this is just an example of one possible variant. This ratio can be varied depending on the emulsifier, desired oiliness and texture of the finished product. It is especially important to adjust the amount of shea butter in the formula if you have oily and problematic skin.

To summarise, developing a skin sebum substitute is a great prospect for people with dry skin who are looking for effective skincare solutions. By harnessing the power of natural oils and lipids such as jojoba oil, borago, shea butter and squalane, innovative formulas can be created that mimic the properties of sebum and help restore the skin's lipid barrier. The right cosmetic products can not only reduce discomfort and temporarily improve the appearance of the skin, but can even eliminate the problem of dryness altogether.

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