Phospholipids in cosmetics: benefits and applications
Any good technologist who is not limited by budget would like to make the best cream for our skin. So that it literally repeats the composition of the lipid layer, easily integrates into it without damaging it, and transports the necessary substances deep into the skin. So that all the components of the cream become building blocks for restoring the epidermis. Based on such motives, corneotherapy arose. Scientists do not stop searching for components that could repeat and replenish substances already included in the skin. For example, the well-known NUF repeats the composition of the natural moisturizing factor of the skin, hyaluronic acid is produced by the skin. Among such components are phospholipids. They began to be used in the cosmetic industry relatively recently and the effect exceeded all expectations.
What are phospholipids
Phospholipids are essential substances in the human body. They cannot be produced in full and come with food. Phospholipids perform a number of important functions in the body:
- the main building material of cell membranes
- participate in the transport of cholesterol, fats and fatty acids
- actively participate in the restoration of damaged tissues
- regulate the processes of maturation and programmed "death" of cells
- support the activity of some enzymes.
In terms of chemistry, phospholipids are esters of polyhydric alcohols and higher fatty acids, while they always contain a residue of phosphoric acid and an additional group of atoms of different chemical nature. Depending on the composition, there are several groups of phospholipids:
- glycerophospholipids - contain glycerol
- phosphosphingolipids - contain sphingosine
- phosphoinositides - contain inositol.
Even within groups, phospholipids are very diverse, and this diversity is due to the variety of fatty acids that can be part of phospholipids.
The most common and well-known are glycerophospholipids, in particular phosphatidylcholine or lecithin. It is the main building material of cell membranes.
Phospholipids are amphiphilic, that is, the heads of their molecules are hydrophilic, but the tails are hydrophobic. In this case, the heads have a negative charge, and the tails have a positive charge. All this together gives phospholipids the property of forming lamellar bilayers in an aqueous solution similar to the lipid layer of human skin, as well as liposomes and lamellar emulsions.
What function do phospholipids perform in cosmetics
Phospholipids are multifunctional components. They can act in three roles at once, and sometimes perform all three functions at once. This is a universal soldier that will not only help create an ideal emulsion for the skin, but also enhance the effect of active substances and protect the skin from the effects of aggressive environmental factors. Phospholipid-based emulsifiers can be added to both rinse-off and leave-on cosmetics. They can also be used in decorative and sunscreen cosmetics.
- Emulsifier – phospholipids form bilayers, surrounding droplets of the oily phase and stabilizing them in water. This forms a lamellar emulsion, which is very friendly to the skin. The tactile sensations from phospholipid creams are very pleasant. Instead of a feeling of greasiness, you get silky smoothness, and sometimes a feeling of coolness. How quickly phospholipid emulsions are absorbed depends more on the selection of the oily phase than on the emulsifier itself. How to properly balance the oily phase of a cream with emollients, read the article “How do emollients improve cosmetics?”;
- Enhancer – phospholipids are able to interact with the barrier lipid layer of the skin, since they are similar to it in structure, and make it temporarily permeable to active substances. In addition, they can form micelles and liposomes around active ingredients and thus "carry" them deep into the skin. That is, the use of the phospholipid emulsifier Amisol soft or the lecithin thickener Lecigel will by default increase the effectiveness of active ingredients in cosmetics;
- Active - phospholipids have pronounced protective properties, again due to their physiological nature. They are directly involved in the process of skin formation and renewal, and are also able to slow down skin aging at the cellular level. Phospholipids are powerful moisturizers that restore the protective barrier and prevent transepidermal moisture loss. One molecule, for example, hydrated lecithin, can bind and "drag" about 20 water molecules into the deep layers of the skin.
Phospholipids are suitable for the care of any skin type. Dehydrated skin with a damaged protective barrier responds especially well to recipes with phospholipids. By the way, the problem of hyperreactive and very dry skin is a common phenomenon in our time. One of the reasons is regular interaction with the skin of substances that “wash out” the lipid layer – harsh detergents, aggressive surfactants, which can be included in even leave-in cosmetics as emulsifiers. Phospholipids in cosmetics can improve the condition of the skin with psoriasis, acne, neurodermatitis, atopic skin.
Phosphatidylcholine or lecithin is the main cosmetic phospholipid
One of the most commonly used phospholipids in cosmetics is lecithin (phosphatidylcholine). It belongs to glycerophospholipids. In addition to glycerin, it includes residues of phosphoric acid, choline and fatty acids. It is also most often found in the tissues of plants and animals, including humans.
Lecithin is extracted from soy, sunflower, it is found in egg yolks, legumes, rapeseed, milk and some algae. Lecithin, which is used in cosmetics, is most often made from soy and sunflower. Naturally, the raw materials used are non-GMO.
Types and kinds of phospholipids
There are two types of phospholipids: unsaturated and hydrogenated.
Unsaturated phospholipids - active ingredients for beautiful skin
Unsaturated phospholipids have unsaturated fatty acids as one of the acyl chains, for example, phosphatidylcholine has unsaturated linoleic acid. It can penetrate the stratum corneum and further into the epidermis. It is unsaturated phospholipids that are used as active ingredients, they can significantly slow down the aging process of the skin, promote skin regeneration. One example of such an active is Amisol Trio (membrane-lipid complex, MLC), which can be purchased at the Beurre store. The component is well tolerated by the skin and hair, forms a protective film, conditions, moisturizes, restores, softens and relieves irritation. It can be used in foaming detergents to soften the irritating effect of surfactants, including shampoos. That is, the presence of this component in cosmetic recipes can remove the feeling of dryness and tightness after washing, but of course, subject to a balanced composition of surfactants.
Hydrogenated phospholipids - emulsifiers for DMS emulsions
In hydrated (or hydrogenated) phospholipids, all acyl chains are saturated acids, most often palmitic or stearic. This type of phospholipids is resistant to oxidation, which makes their transportation, storage and use much easier. These phospholipids are ideal biomimetic emulsifiers. They not only form a stable lamellar emulsion, but also moisturize and protect the skin.
Emulsifiers based on phospholipids are able to create emulsions of varying viscosity: from light serums to thick creams. Moreover, even a small percentage of them in the recipe seriously changes the sensory properties of creams for the better. It is not for nothing that there is such an expression as “phospholipid touch”, and it is possible to understand what this is only after preparing a cream on a biomimetic emulsifier.
Such emulsifiers help restore the natural protective barrier of the skin, as they imitate the lamellar structure of the extracellular matrix. When using them, moisture loss is reduced. Emulsifiers based on hydrogenated phospholipids allow oil content in the recipe from 3 to 40%. They are very easy to use and are capable of creating emulsions in a wide pH range, they combine well with other components (including alcohols and electrolytes). Emulsifiers based on hydrogenated phospholipids can be bought in the Beurre store. In our assortment you will find the most delicate Amisol Soft and the already beloved Plantaquat.
Different types of phospholipids can be combined with each other, supplemented with ceramides, phytosterols and other components that are used in corneotherapy.
DMS system and the role of phospholipids in it
DMS stands for dermal membrane structure. Its creation is based on knowledge of how our skin and, in particular, the stratum corneum are structured. Usually, DMS cosmetics are positioned as products for sensitive, atopic skin or skin with diseases, serious disruptions in the functioning of the protective stratum corneum.
The term appeared in 1990, when the German scientist H. Lautenschläger received a patent for a new lipid composition that completely copies the structure of the lipid layer of the skin. Water and oil are collected not in balls, as when creating a conventional emulsion, but in bilayers. Phospholipids, or rather emulsifiers created on their basis, are responsible for the formation of such a structure. The result is a lamellar structure that is very well perceived and does not harm the protective layer of the skin.
The components of such a system are physiological, and the system itself makes it possible to completely exclude aggressive active ingredients that harm the stratum corneum. In fact, such cosmetics are perceived as a second skin.
Initially, the name DMS was used as the name of a specific brand of cosmetics, but eventually became synonymous with corneotherapy.
The components of such a system are physiological, and the system itself makes it possible to completely exclude aggressive active ingredients that harm the stratum corneum. In fact, such cosmetics are perceived as a second skin.
Initially, the name DMS was used as the name of a specific brand of cosmetics, but eventually became synonymous with corneotherapy.
The use of phospholipids in cosmetic recipes requires a certain skill and knowledge of technological processes that are unusual when using other components, for example, many active ingredients and emulsifiers based on phospholipids must be hydrated. To make your first cream with phospholipids perfect, visit our YouTube channel and make your first DMS cream with us.
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