DIY Hair Conditioner: How to Make the Right Recipe

Shampoo and conditioner are an inseparable pair that have taken up residence on our bathroom shelves. Shampoo provides cleansing of hair and scalp, and at the same time conditioner or rinse facilitates combing, gives hair shine, creates anti-static effect, i.e. conditioning. 

For those who make cosmetics with their own hands or only going to do it - to make a working recipe for conditioner will not be difficult. Therefore, first let's understand how it works, after which it will become clearer what components to select in this or that recipe.

Why hair conditioner should have an acidic pH

In brief, hair is made up of the core, the cortex and the cuticle. To understand how conditioner works, we need to look specifically at the cuticle, which is made up of flat keratinised cells that are layered on top of each other like shingles. At an alkaline pH the cuticle opens up, and this property is successfully used to create nourishing masks for hair, as well as for colouring.

However, if the pH of the hair remains alkaline during all cosmetic procedures (including just washing), the hair may become dull, tangled and frizzy. When the pH is acidic, the cuticle scales close, tightly adhering to each other, creating a smooth hair surface that reflects light well. This makes the hair shiny, smooth and easier to comb. This is the main reason why hair conditioner should always have an acidic pH of 4.0 - 4.5, only then it will fulfil its function as a conditioning agent. 

Cosmetic ingredients: what to add to your hair conditioner

No quality conditioner-conditioner will do without a cationic emulsifier or additive. Hair has a negative charge, but the molecules of cationic emulsifiers have a positive charge, they are attracted to the hair and cover it with the thinnest film, removing static electricity. This is the very effect of conditioning. As a result, the hair looks alive, shiny and healthy. They are easy to style and comb. Actually, even if you create a balm-"empty", which will have only one cationic emulsifier and water, you will already have a conditioner for hair. The main thing is to lower the pH of the finished product, it should be 4-4,5. 

How to choose an emulsifier for a conditioner or conditioner for hair

You can buy three types of cationic emulsifiers in the Beurre shop:

• Amidet APA 22
• BTMS Emulsifier
• Conditioner Emulsifier
• DEHYQUART
• Varisofr EQ65

BTMS and Conditioner Emulsifier work well together. It is important to remember that Conditioner Emulsifier activates its properties in an acidic environment when acids are added. Also when working with this emulsifier it is recommended to add a few per cent of oils or emollients to provide a nourishing effect on the hair:

• light krumbeh oil
• broccoli oil
• jojoba oil
• emollients
• Eldew ceramide-like emollient, which revitalises hair when even 0.5 per cent is added to the formulation.

DEHYQUART is a self-emulsifying base that will make a conditioner even if you only add water. It is simple, inexpensive, and surly.

Plantaquat NC lecithin emulsifier for hair is a conditioning emulsifier, but without a cationic component. It is of plant origin and is recommended for creating conditioners, conditioning shampoos or nourishing/restorative hair masks. If you decide to work with it, it is especially important to make the right pH, otherwise you will get not a conditioner (pH for conditioners is 4.0 - 4.5), but a hair mask (here the pH can be made from 6.0 to 7.0 to open the hair scales and allow the actives to penetrate deep). As a reminder, conditioner rinse-off closes the cuticle scales, which means that nutrients will definitely not penetrate into the middle of the hair. So leave expensive components, ceramides, vitamins and other assets for masks. But in the conditioner add those ingredients that will work well on the surface of the hair.

Available recipes for hair care products with the above emulsifiers:

• Solid detox shampoo with activated charcoal
• Restorative hair mask with keratin and amino acids
• Non-washable hair conditioner for hair in 5 minutes
• Balm-conditioner for hair with silk.

Active ingredients for a conditioner recipe

The main task of the active ingredients that you include in a rinse-off conditioner recipe is to create a protective film, moisturise the hair surface, give it elasticity, shine and silkiness, as well as to make the hair frizz-free and non-electrifying. That is, nourishment and restoration - this is the task for masks that are on the surface of the hair for a long time, not 1-2 minutes.

1. Hydrolysates - we consider them to be a must-have asset that no hair conditioner recipe should be without. Hydrolysates have large molecules, which in any case remain on the hair surface, they create a thin protective film and attract moisture, thus moisturising the hair surface. In general, any hydrolysate will be extremely useful for hair: wheat, rice proteins or silk amino acids. But keratin hydrolysate has always been and will always be the leader when added to rinsable and non-washable products. In the Beurre shop you can already buy the innovative assets Gluadin (plant keratin hydrolysate or phytokeratin) and Nutrilan (animal keratin hydrolysate), which thanks to their lower molecular weight can work not only on the surface of the hair, but also penetrate the cuticle.
2. Moisturisation is the key to beautiful and healthy hair. And components with this action will never be superfluous in a leave-in conditioner. One of the best moisturisers for hair is Prodew 500 complex. It is close in composition to the natural moisturising factor of the hair and in addition consists of amino acids, as a result of which the component is able not only to moisturise the hair, but also to "patch up" the damage. Aquaxyl and Aqua Shuttle actives work well on the surface of the hair.
3. Silicones: there is, of course, a lot of debate about whether silicones should be added to a natural hair conditioner. On the one hand, silicones facilitate combing, give hair shine, instantly create a well-groomed effect, on the other hand, they accumulate in the hair web and weigh it down. The film that silicones form can prevent nutrients from reaching the hair shaft, resulting in dull and brittle hair over time. So if you still think that the benefits and harms of silicones are comparable, then pay more attention to cleansing procedures.
4. And if you are a tough opponent of silicones, instead of them add broccoli oil or krambe to your conditioner - the effect will be similar, and the benefits will undoubtedly be greater. 
5. You should also pay special attention to preservatives, because they must work in an acidic environment. These can be Nipaguard SCE, Euxyl K712, Efficin LA, or the universal Euxyl PE9010. In fact, almost all preservatives are effective at pH 4.0 - 4.5. Look for a full list of natural preservatives on the Beurre shop's website.

How to apply hair conditioner 

Hair conditioner should only be applied to the hair web, the scalp does not need such a product at all. Moreover, the low pH and cationic component of hair rinse can irritate the scalp, which can result in dandruff and dryness. It may well be that the unpleasant effect will not appear immediately and then you will not realise where this negative reaction came from.  To find out why cationic emulsifiers should not be used on the skin, read our article "Cationic Emulsifiers: Use for Skin and Hair".

You can find ready-made hair conditioner recipes on our YouTube channel "Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen". We publish only personally tested recipes, we show in detail the technology of work. According to our videos, even a beginner in cream making can make hair conditioner.