How to replace silicones in natural cosmetics for hair and skin

No sulfates, no parabens, no silicones – these are the words that are often found on the labels of natural cosmetics to attract as many customers as possible. But is it really possible to do without these components to create an effective product with an immediate positive effect on the skin or hair? Yes, sulfates can be replaced with other milder plant-based surfactants without losing foaming and the cleansing effect. We wrote about this in the article “How to Make a Natural Shampoo”. The terrifying parabens are strong preservatives that can easily be replaced with “green” preservatives of natural origin without losing their effectiveness. But what to do with silicones that give an immediate effect in cosmetics, which makes the buyer want to repeat the purchase? Let's take a closer look at why silicones are needed in cosmetics at all.

What are silicones and their types

Silicone is a chemical compound consisting of oxygen, silicon, carbon and hydrogen molecules. This substance is of synthetic origin and does not belong to natural components.

Silicones are different types of compounds, all of them are inert, do not change their properties in any way when temperatures or the environment change, they are resistant to ultraviolet light, oxidation, do not burn, and are not toxic. Silicones have large molecules, which means they do not penetrate deep into the skin or hair.

In cosmetics, two types of silicones are most often used:

• silicone oils are water-insoluble compounds. These include amodimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, dimethicone
• "Volatile" silicones - cyclomethicone.

What function do they perform

Silicones are used in almost any type of cosmetic product, both in mass-market products and in expensive professional lines. Mass market simply adores silicones and for good reason. Firstly, these are fairly cheap components, and secondly, their effect is immediate and visible to the naked eye: apply the cream, the skin immediately becomes velvety to the touch, the cream is quickly absorbed, does not leave a greasy feeling. But in hair products the effect is different: you wash your hair, and after that your hair shines, lies beautifully, smooth and silky. That is, it is silicones that provide the product with the first positive impression and can improve the cosmetic product.

Why silicones are used in creams

• Give the skin silkiness, especially volatile silicones
• Improve the tactile properties of the cream, eliminate the oiliness and stickiness of the cream
• Visually smooth out the skin texture
• Help with easy and even distribution of the cream

Why silicones are used in hair cosmetics

• Make combing easier
• Give smoothness and shine to the hair
• Visually make split ends invisible - glue them together
• Silicones in decorative cosmetics
• Give shine in lipsticks and lip glosses
• Improve adhesion
• Facilitate even distribution of pigment.

Silicones: so after all, harm or benefit

Silicones have already proven themselves to be a useful component when it comes to improving the sensory properties of creams and other cosmetic products. In addition, silicones are able to create an occlusive film on the skin and thereby retain moisture. By the way, the common assertion that this film does not breathe is a myth. Gas exchange is not disrupted when silicones are applied to the skin.

Silicone do not clog pores and do not contribute to the formation of comedones, as they are inert substances. They protect against temperature changes - this is very important in hair cosmetics, improve the distribution of sunscreen filters and reduce the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation.

However, they are not added to natural cosmetics. After all, they have an exclusively cosmetic instant effect. Silicones do not improve the condition of the skin or hair, but only mask imperfections.

In addition, the production of silicones is harmful to the environment. They tend to accumulate: not only on the skin and hair, but also in nature. Silicones that have accumulated on the skin or hair attract dust particles and heavy metals that are in the air. And then there is a delayed, but nevertheless unpleasant effect. The skin becomes dull. Hair gets dirty faster, becomes brittle, weak and porous. This is the price to pay for an instant wow effect.

A natural alternative to silicones in cosmetics for skin and hair

You can replace silicones in your handmade cosmetics recipe with other useful actives, which you can buy in the Beurre store. Such components will not only provide an immediate cosmetic effect, but will also benefit your skin and hair.

In order to replace silicone in a recipe, you need to understand for what purpose this silicone was introduced into the recipe: to improve the tactile properties of the cream, to lighten the emulsion with base oils, to distribute the pigment, to create a “dry” oil or to give the hair silkiness.

For example, silicones in hair recipes can be replaced with broccoli and crambe oils. Literally 1-2% of these oils in your shampoo or conditioner will add shine and smoothness to your hair.

Broccoli oil is considered the lightest oil due to the erucic acid in its composition. It does not weigh down the hair, makes it more manageable and easier to comb. In creams, broccoli oil improves the glide and application of the product, due to its low fat content, this oil can be used in dry oil recipes for skin and hair. You can use pure broccoli oil as a hair-end treatment: take a few drops of oil, rub them into your palms and then apply to the lower part of damp hair.

Crambe oil or Abyssinian mustard oil is also one of the lightest oils due to its fatty acid composition. It can be used to replace silicones not only in hair recipes. Crambe oil is suitable for dissolving UV filters and ensures good distribution of dry particles. Crambe oil is similar in FA to broccoli oil, one is much cheaper, often used in dry body oils, as well as massage mixtures.

Dimethicone in hair products can be replaced with the innovative Sofcare active. This is a multifunctional conditioning ingredient of plant origin. It does not reduce hair volume (as silicones do), enhances their shine and improves hair manageability, helps the hairstyle to retain its shape. At the same time, Sofcare increases hair strength. It is evenly distributed over the hair, promotes better adhesion of the cuticle to the hair shaft, thereby improving the condition of brittle hair. And a bonus for everyone who cares about the planet - the component is biodegradable and does not harm the environment.

Volatile silicones, such as the popular cyclomethicone, are the main component of leave-in dry oils for skin and hair, and are also a frequent guest in cream formulations. Its job is to lighten oil mixtures, make them easy to distribute over the body and hair, and absorb quickly. In creams, it improves tactile properties and makes them light and instantly absorbed. However, synthetic cyclomethicone can be replaced with natural analogues: emollients Gosulin IL, Plantasens Olive LD, and Cetiol RLF. These are super-light, volatile emollients with high spreadability. Both of them are able to lighten oil mixtures, reduce oiliness, promote better distribution of cosmetics, and improve tactile sensations. At the same time, these emollients really soften the skin and can even be used in children's cosmetics, because they are of plant origin.

As for phenyl trimethicone, which is often used in lip products (lipsticks, glosses, balms) to give them shine, it can be replaced with the ceramide-like emollient Eldew. This component significantly enhances the shine and radiance of decorative cosmetics, improves the overall impression after application, and also gently cares for the skin of the lips.

We often use all these components to create recipes from the Beurre cosmetic kitchen. You can watch them on our YouTube channel, get inspired and create your own recipes. Use the components thoughtfully, read their descriptions and do not chase an instant effect.

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