Conditioning actives in cosmetics: why use them for skin and hair

How to make cosmetics that give a velvety, soft feeling to the skin and hair, which you just want to touch after applying the cosmetic product? This effect is called conditioning and is widely used in the creation of cosmetics, as it greatly changes its tactility and gives an instant pleasant feeling that the skin has changed and become velvety, and the hair - silky.

What do you think of when you hear the word conditioning

First of all, hair conditioner, underwear conditioner comes to mind, and a Google search gives us conditioner for the leather interior of a car. What do these conditionings have in common? Yes, they do, and in simple words it can be described as an improvement in the condition of another material. Hair becomes more manageable and smooth, underwear and leather in the car interior - soft. Our skin can also become soft, elastic and velvety from conditioning after using a cream or other cosmetic product that includes conditioning additives. But do not confuse hair conditioning, which is most often carried out thanks to cationic components, with skin conditioning. Most often, skin conditioning is covering it with a thin film that retains moisture, softens, and removes static electricity. Let's figure out what exactly the difference is.

Types of conditioning components in cosmetics

Substances that have conditioning properties are called conditioning agents. The most famous conditioning agents are:

• cationic emulsifiers (surfactants), the most famous of which are BTMS, conditioning emulsifier CE, Amidet APA-22 and others, located in the section of cationic emulsifiers
• cationic thickeners, such as silk guar.
• cationic polymers, such as all types of polyquaterniums or his natural analogue Softisan.

Cationic emulsifiers

Cationic surfactants are most often used to create conditioners and balms for hair. Due to the positive charge, they are attracted to negatively charged damaged areas of hair and remain on them even after washing off the cosmetic product. They create a thin film, make hair smooth and healthier in appearance. However, we do not recommend you use them for skin. Why? You can read more about this in our article “Cationic emulsifiers: application for skin and hair”.

Cationic polymers and their plant analogues

As for cationic polymers, these are also film-forming antistatic substances that create a protective film, make hair smooth, but can irritate the skin and mucous membrane of the eye. Consequently, new products appear on the cosmetic market that are of plant origin, tolerant to skin and hair, but at the same time their functionality is not inferior to well-known synthetic components

In the Beurre store, you can buy an analogue of the effective polymer Polyquaternium 10 - Softisan. This active ingredient is of completely plant origin, provides a high level of conditioning for both skin and hair. But along with its main task, the component is able to moisturize the skin and reduce transepidermal water loss. That is, you can introduce Softisan into shampoos and conditioners, leave-in hair sprays, as well as hair and body oils, wet wipes, decorative cosmetics, emulsions, and this component will provide you with that very feeling of softness and silkiness after applying cosmetics. As you already understood, Softisan is a complete replacement for synthetic polymers in cosmetics.

Also, plant cationic products include Greenquat BT, a patented 100% plant-based copolymer based on betaine with a high cationic charge. It is suitable for rinse-off and leave-on hair cosmetics, such as shampoos, conditioners, cleansing lotions, hair masks, serums, and is also recommended for body care due to the velvety feeling typical of cationic products.

Chitosan PCA is a natural polymer produced from raw materials of marine origin - chitin or exoskeleton of mollusks. Applied to the skin or hair, it has a protective and moisturizing effect, imparting exclusively sensory characteristics to finished products. Chitosan PCA, having a positive charge, interacts with the negative charge of the skin and hair, improving bio-adhesion, exhibiting protective and moisturizing properties.

Components with additional conditioning properties

The remaining conditioning agents can be called rather auxiliary, co-conditioning. The use of one of them is unlikely to give a wow effect, but the correct combination will provide a good result. Such components can be divided into several types:

1. Occlusive, these include, for example, Vaseline. These are substances that create an air-tight film that prevents moisture evaporation. The stratum corneum is saturated with water and becomes softer and more pleasant to the touch. However, Vaseline can only be used in extreme cases and for very dry and dehydrated skin.
2. Humidifiers are hygroscopic substances that can bind water. They are usually soluble in water. These include, for example, sorbitol, betaine, glycerin. They are very appropriate to add to products with surfactants, since in addition to conditioning properties, they can improve the quality of the foam and reduce the aggressive effect of surfactants on the skin. Among the conditioning and moisturizing agents, Inulin is especially worth mentioning. It has the most pronounced conditioning effect. The component belongs to polysaccharides, it forms a thin film on the skin or hair. It acts as a strong antistatic agent. It also softens the aggressive action of surfactants and significantly improves the foam characteristics.
3. Hydrolysates are substances (proteins) with a complex structure present in living tissues. Proteins also have conditioning properties. They can be used for both skin and hair. They act as moisturizers - creating a thin protective film that attracts moisture. All protein hydrolysates have conditioning properties. These properties are especially pronounced in wheat protein hydrolysate. It removes static electricity, makes the skin velvety, and hair elastic and shiny. Wheat proteins have a softening effect and reduce the reaction to irritating surfactants, so they are often included in shower gel and shampoo recipes.
4. Silicones also work as softeners, but they can accumulate in the hair and weigh it down. Dimethicone and cyclomethicone are most often used. In the modern cosmetic industry, there are softer substances with a similar effect, for example, broccoli oil has the same conditioning effect as silicones. I would also like to recommend a vegetable analogue of silicone - Sofcare active. This component softens hair, makes it easier to comb, increases volume, and also improves foaming and the general characteristics of shampoo or shower gel. But it can be used not only for hair, but also for the body, providing a conditioning effect and replacing volatile silicones in cosmetics.
5. Softeners are designed to lubricate the surface of the skin or hair, these are natural oils and triglycerides. Softeners include lanolin, both animal and vegetable, Cetyl palmitate and Amisol Trio. These components are most often used on the skin, but Amisol Trio can also be used to increase the elasticity of the hair, but it should be remembered that a large dosage will greatly weigh down and greasy the hair. Usually, conditioning properties of many actives are not the main ones, but become a pleasant addition to the main action of the ingredient. Read the description carefully and do not neglect the conditioning capabilities of the ingredients, because they make your cosmetics more pleasant to use.

Do not forget to share our articles on social networks, and also subscribe to the Beurre Cosmetic Kitchen YouTube channel, where you will find many ready-made recipes for natural cosmetics that you can make yourself.

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